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Orange Picking. 



SKETCHES 



OF 



Southern Scenes 



BY 



LOUISE SMITH SQUIER, 




NEW YORK : 
J. W. Pratt & Son, Printers, 73 to 79 Fulton Street. 

1885. 



. vn 



Copyright, 1885, 

BY 

L. S. Squier. 



PREFACE. 



The desire to travel is almost universal, — to visit 
new scenes and meet people differing in appearance 
and customs from those encountered in every-day 
life. The present rapid and luxurious system of 
traveling, contrasted with the slow and comfortless 
facilities of other days, has developed an irresistible 
longing to see for one's self the wonders and 
beauties of other climes. Those who for various 
reasons are debarred from the indulgence of this 
luxury of travel, read or listen with avidity to de- 
scriptions of the beautiful, grand or marvelous, whether 
beheld in foreign lands or on the shores of our 
own 'country. Believing that to many of our friends 
an account of places visited by us would be of inter- 
est, and serve also as a pleasant remembrancer to 
those who composed our party of tourists, on their 
flying trip Southward, these sketches are written. 

L. S. S. 



DEDICATED 

TO 

THE LADIES' ASSOCIATION 

OF 

Park Congregational Church, 

BROOKLYN, N, Y., 

BY 

THE AUTHOR. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER. PAGE. 

Preface, - - - - -3 

Dedication, - 5 

I. The Departure, - - - n 

II. Newport News, . ... 21 

III. By Rail, - - - - 31 

IV. En Route for Petersburg, . - 38 
V. Petersburg, - - - - - 40 

VI. The Crater, - - - - 51 

VII. Back to Richmond, - - - - 59 

VIII. Richmond, - - - - 63 

IX. An Early Stroll, - - - - 72 

X. The Feathered Songsters of the South, - 79 

XI. Some of the Churches, - - - S2 

XII. Plantation Life, 86 

< 

XIII. Another Day in the Capital, - - 100 

XIV. The Chesapeake & Ohio Railway, - - 114 
XV. Hampton, - - - - - 118 

XVI. Old Point Comfort, — Hygeia Hotel and Fortress 

Monroe, .... 15S 

XVII. Norfolk, - - - - - 182 

XVIII. On Shipboard, .... Ig o 

XIX. Homeward Bound, - 194 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Orange Picking, ... Frontispiece 

" guyandotte," - - - - - 14 

Hampton Roads, ----- 18 

Primary Class, Colored School, - - - 23 

School House, ----- 25 

Old Locust Tree, - - - - - 42 

Old Blandford Church, ... - 44 

Negro Cabin, - - - ■ - -56 

Chain Gang at Work, ... 67 

Farm Wagon of Virginia, - - - - 68 

The Capitol, ----- 73 

Children Feeding Squirrels, Capitol Square, - - 75 

Horse Cars, ----- 77 

Monumental Church, - - - - 83 

Medical College, Richmond, - 104 

Map of Old Point Comfort and Vicinity, - - 117 

Old Hospital Barracks, - - - - 120 

Virginia Hall, Normal School, - - - 122 

Indian Students, Hampton, - - - 124 

Indian Students, Hampton, - - - - 125 

Winona Lodge, Normal School, - - - 133 

Indians in the Workshop, - 135 

Huntington Industrial Works, Normal School, - 137 

Stone Memorial Building, Normal School, - - 141 

Marine View, ... - 143 



PAGE. 

Old St. John's Church, Hampton, - - - 147 

Ringing the School Bell, - - - 149 

National Soldiers' Home, Hampton, - - - 150 

Old Veterans, - - - - - 152 

Ward Memorial Hall, Soldiers' Home, - 153 

Main Building, Soldiers' Home, - - - 155 

Monument, National Cemetery, - - - 156 

Hygeia Hotel, ... - - 158 

Banquet Hall. Hygeia Hotel, - - - 165 

Dancing and Concert Hall, Hygeia Hotel, - 167 

Winter Corridors, - 168 

On the Beach, - - - - - 173 

Fortress Monroe, - 174 

In the Fortress, ----- 175 

One of the " Big Guns," Fortress Monroe, - - 177 

Jeff. Davis' Prison, Fortress Monroe, - - 178 
Residence of the Post Commandant, Gen. J. C. Tidball, 

Fortress Monroe, ... - 179 

Glimpses of Garrison Life, - - - 181 

Market Scene, Norfolk, - - - 183 

Private Residence, - 184 
Going to Mill, ----- 185 

St. Paul's Church, Norfolk, - - - 187 

The Rip Raps, - 199 

" Old Dominion," ----- 202 



Sketches of Southern Scenes, 



CHAPTER I. 



THE DEPARTURE. 

" Yet waft me from the harbor's mouth, 
Wild winds ! I seek a warmer sky, 
And I will see before I die 
The palms and temples of the south." — Tettuyson. 

T N the elegant saloon of the steamer Guyan- 
dotte, at pier 26, North River, might have 
been seen on the afternoon of Saturday, May 
1 6th, the eager, expectant faces of a party of 
tourists from Park Congregational Church, 
Brooklyn ; a harmonious company, seeking 
change, rest, diversion, and bent on seeing and 
enjoying all of interest and pleasure in a pro- 
posed trip to the sunny South. Having spoken 
the parting farewell, and waved adieu to the 
many friends assembled to see us off, the eano-- 
planks were hauled up, the lines cast off, and the 
good ship steamed out into the bay. 



12 

Casting a backward look towards New York, 
standing at the head of its magnificent harbor, 
where, with its sister city, tenderest memories 
and associations center, the attention was then 
turned to the varied points of interest in these 
familiar waters of the Upper and Lower Bay. 
Governor's Island with its underground fortifica- 
tions appeared on the left ; Bedloe's Island, with 
the unfinished pedestal, awaiting the erection of 
the great Bartholdi Statue, was a point of special 
attraction. Now affectionate glances are turned 
towards Brooklyn, our beautiful " City of 
Churches" and homes. Staten Island with its 
charming villages and picturesque scenery, 
divides the attention with Bay Ridge on the 
opposite shore. Passing through the Narrows, 
Forts Wadsworth and Hamilton stand guard 
on either bank, over the Port of New York ; 
evidently more imposing and awe-inspiring in 
appearance than useful or strong for defence, in 
the light of modern science and warfare. And 
here is the- now neglected and scarcely 
remembered Fort Lafayette, once the terror of 
traitors. 

All objects possessed an attraction for our 
tourists. Captain Bourne, General Superin- 



13 

tendent of the Old Dominion Steamship 
Company, and one of our party, pointed out 
to us a " tramp " on the sea, which presented a 
much more respectable and reputable appear- 
ance than those generally encountered on land. 
A porpoise raised himself for an instant out of 
the water ; but, though we watched some 
moments intently, did not appear again. Next 
came in sight the beach of Coney Island, with its 
hotels, pavilions and huge elephant in the back- 
ground. Rounding Sandy Hook and the Never- 
sink Highlands, our course lay along the New 
Jersey coast. We passed Long Branch, Asbury 
Park and Ocean Grove. Soon familiar views 
began to recede, and were lost in the distance, as 
we strove to catch glimpses of new and strange 
scenes. 

The fresh, invigorating breezes of the ocean 
had begun to sharpen the already keen appetites 
of our excursionists, when the welcome sound of 
the gong was heard and responded to with 
alacrity. Having done ample justice to the 
repast served in the saloon below, all took a stroll 
on deck, enjoying the lovely moonlight on the 
water, out of sight of land, save as the friendly 
lighthouses flashed out upon the evening sky. 



14 

Among these, Barnegat with its revolving light, 
and Absecom's luminous rays from far down the 
coast, stood out most brilliant. 

Later in the evening euchre and whist parties 
were formed in the saloon, and the interest kept 
up till eleven o'clock, when lights were ordered 
out, and the company separated to their rooms, 





Ui^5^B^^ 



" GUYANDOTTE." 

voting naught on earth so charming as a sea 
voyage on board the good ship Guyandotte. 
But " unstable as water," the ocean at this time 
held true to its reputation, and by two o'clock 
Sunday morning, the fog-whistles were sounding 
their shrill, steady note of danger ; the waves 
rolled high, the ship rocked steadily and grandly, 



i5 

giving assurance to all that we were really at sea. 
Indeed, the Captain afterwards declared that 
seldom, at this season, does the Old Dominion 
line encounter such rou^h weather. 

The deserted breakfast table Sabbath morn- 
ing, testified to the wisdom of the many in 
determining to have a merry voyage while they 
could, though that merriment might be of short 
duration. Only six persons out of twenty-eight 
put in an appearance. Some few afterwards 
frankly owned themselves victims to that dread 
nautical malady — sea-sickness — and, in fact, 
seemed rather to glory in it, as one of the inevit- 
able proofs of having been on a sea voyage. But 
the majority disclaimed any such weakness, de- 
claring themselves only in need of a little more 
rest, preferring to be rocked peacefully to sleep 
in their berths, to the most tempting breakfast. 
There were still others who assured their anxious 
friends that they were far too good sailors to be 
entrapped into any such unequal struggle with 
their old enemy, the Sea. 

It was a grand sight on deck to see the noble 
vessel rolling and plunging in the waves. But 
the heavycfog still shrouded us, and the Captain 
never left his post of outlook. Then we recalled 



i6 

the words of Captain- Kelly the evening before, 
when our party were gathered in his beautiful 
room on the upper deck. He was speaking of 
the perfect confidence he had in his ship. " The 
Guyandotte" he said, " is one of the stanchest 
steamers afloat. We fear not the fiercest storm. 
Only a fog, that dread enemy of the mariner, 
which no light nor sound can far penetrate, has 
power to cast a shadow of anxiety on officer or 
sailor." Captain Kelly is an able, efficient and 
experienced officer, courteous, and thoughtful of 
the comfort of all, with a quiet dignity that com- 
mands respect and confidence. The discipline 
on shipboard is perfect. Every man is at his 
post. No duty is neglected. All moves as if 
by clockwork. There is no loud command, no 
noise, no confusion ; and to the casual observer 
the ship seems almost to run itself. 

But to return to our excursionists. The cold 
increased with the morning hours, till, for shelter, 
we sought the " Captain's Room," an apartment 
on the upper deck, whose luxurious and artistic 
appointments show that wife and daughters must 
have had a hand in its adornment. Here we 
found the Captain's charming wife, who, in 
former years, had herself accompanied her 



i7 

husband on more than one whaling voyage, visit- 
ing many lands and climes unknown to us. In 
recountine and listening- to the wonders of sea 
and land, imagination brought the pictured 
scenes vividly before us. 

A little later we sighted a whistling buoy ; our 
attention being first arrested by the low weird 
moaning sound, which can be heard for several 
miles. Farther on was a gas-light buoy, that, we 
were told, will burn for three months without 
replenishing. 

About eleven o'clock the cold moderated some- 
what, and rain began to fall. We passed an 
unsightly lighthouse standing on piles far out in 
the ocean, and were told that the people inhabit- 
ing that homestead raise all their own vegetables. 
Unwilling to seem to doubt the veracity of our 
informant, we looked around for some scrap of 
earth, or even window-garden, but in vain. 
Then came the explanation — " They raise them 
with a rope ! " 

The Virginia coast now appeared plainly in 
sight, and we entered Hampton Roads, passing 
Fortress Monroe and the Rip Raps, and near the 
scene of the tragic sinking of the Cumberland, 
with her devoted crew, by the Mcrriviac, in the 







p4 



19 

Spring of '62, when the Union fleet were lying at 
anchor in these waters, followed by the oppor- 
tune arrival of the Monitor, and the fierce and 
deadly combat waged between the huge ironclad 
ram and the "little-cheese-box-on-a-raft," as she 
was afterwards fondly styled by the Boys in Blue. 
We now felt that we had indeed reached historic 
waters, and asked if it was possible that the 
horrors and cruelties of that long and unnatural 
Civil War were really enacted within less than 
twenty-four hours' sail of our own Northern 
homes ? Though the rain still continued, and 
the sun refused to shine, the land breeze soon 
brought back the color to the cheek, and the 
wonted brightness to the eye, and dinner hour 
saw the guests back in their old places of the 
afternoon before, with appetites apparently 
whetted by their long rest and fast. 

As these sketches are written in the interest of 
our Association, and as a reliquary of the trip, 
it is thought that a record of the names of those 
composing our party of tourists, might be a 
gratification to many : 

Capt. II. A. Bourne, Geri I Sup't of the Old Dominion Steamship Co. 
Mrs. H. A. Bourne. 
Miss Nellie Bourne. 
Miss Sarah Louise Gibbs. 



20 



Capt. J. A. Kelly, Commander of the "Guyandotte." 

Mrs. J. A. Kelly. 

Miss Mattie Kelly. 

Mr. H. P. Smith, Manager and Director. 

Mrs. H. P. Smith. 

Mrs. S. L. Gillett. 

Miss Kittie Gillett. 

Miss Annie Squire. 

Miss Mary Dreyer. 

Miss Star. 

Master Harry Mount. 

Mrs. C. C. Knowlton. 

Mr. C. H. Hammond. 

Master Clarence Hammond. 

Mr. A. A. Barclay. 

Mrs. A. A. Barclay. 

Mr. George Wheeler. 

Mrs. George Wheeler. 

Mr. Lucas Baker. 

Mr. John Robertson. 

Miss Agnes Robertson. 

Mr. Norman Robertson. 

Mr. A. C. Squier. 

Mrs. A. C. Squier, Historian. 

As the hours of the afternoon wore away with 
no sign of clear weather, and we were now rap- 
idly nearing Newport News, where a part of our 
company were to leave for a more extended tour 
West, it was decided to have a photograph taken 
of the whole party, as a sort of souvenir of the 
occasion. This was accordingly done, our tour- 
ists grouping themselves on and about the grand 



21 

staircase leading to the saloon, and in front of 
the large mirror, where the strongest light was 
shed. Two interlopers forced their way into the 
group, and took up a prominent position. As 
hints and disapproving looks were of no avail to 
dislodge them, they were not ejected, but remain 
as fadeless examples of the intrusive traveler, 
often to be met with. The two doubtless 
imagined their presence might atone for the 
absence of three of our own number. 




^/'"'V 



CHAPTER II. 



w 



NEWPORT NEWS. 

"From labor, health, from health contentment spring; 
Contentment ope's the source of every joy." 

E landed at Newport News a little after 
2 p.m. Sunday, May 17th. About a 
hundred negroes stood waiting on the wharf 
at the entrance to the immense storehouse 
of the Old 'Dominion Steamship Company ; 
and as the Guyandotte was moored to the 
dock, the sides of the vessel were apparently 
thrown open, and gangs of colored stevedores, 
each with a two-wheeled hand-truck, sprang to 
the work of unloading the cargo, several hundred 
tons being landed in a few hours. 

The cheerful alacrity of these children of 
slavery, nimbly running up the steep gang- 
planks, enlivening their work with songs and 
jokes, as though it was but a light and pleasant 
pastime in which they were engaged, is extra- 
ordinary. But well may their black faces now 




Primary Class, Colored School— Newport News. 



2 4 

shine with a deep and abiding joy, for in place of 
the cruel Overseer of a few short years ago, 
who stood with lash and hound upon their track, 
is now seen the keen, clear-sighted man of busi- 
ness, sitting at a high desk, with a book of record 
before him, taking note of all the freight that 
is brought out, and recording the faithful work 
done, that the well-earned payment shall be 
prompt and sure. 

There are six million negroes in the United 
States, and they are here to remain. The question 
which has agitated so many in the past, as to what 
position the black man is to hold in the future, 
will in time adjust itself. 

In their nature the negroes are happy, noisy, 
volatile, bubbling over with exuberant spirits. 
But intelligence is rapidly spreading among the 
colored people, who now pride themselves upon 
being able to read and write, a liberty which, years 
ago, was forbidden by the enactments of the State. 
Their children are now said to be more regular 
in attendance at school than those of white par- 
ents. The negroes are building churches for 
themselves, and seek only the society of their 
own people. Antagonisms are growing less and 
less between whites and blacks, and the next cen- 



tury will find the African fully a citizen, and the 
two races living quietly and peacefully side by 
side in this favored land, each in his own sphere, 
contented and prosperous. 




School House. 



The natural advantages possessed by this 
town, in its fine water front, seem never until 
recently to have been appreciated or utilized. 
The large covered wharf of this company, used 
as a passenger pier, is 800 feet long, 162 feet 
wide, and two stories high. Near the wharf, and 
connected with it, is a lofty six-story grain- 
elevator. 



26 

The busy activity kept up all along the 
extensive wharves and immense storehouse at 
this place, attest the enormous traffic carried on 
here. The water at this point is twenty-eight 
feet deep at low tide, and the largest vessels can 
approach these wharves at any time. The Old 
Dominion Line runs every week six powerful 
first-class steamers, the Guyandotte, Roanoke, 
Old Dominion, Manhattan, Wyanoke and Seneca, 
making regular trips from New York to Norfolk, 
Newport News, Old Point Comfort, Petersburg 
and Richmond. The Guyandotte and Roanoke, 
of 2,354 tons burden, are the largest and finest 
of the fleet. They are iron screw steamships, 
and fine specimens of their craft, built at Roach's 
ship-yard in Chester, Pa. These steamships 
have three decks besides a hurricane-deck, and 
are supplied with water-tight bulkheads, while 
model machinery may be seen working in every 
department. All appliances for the safety and 
comfort of passengers have been introduced. 
Thorough ventilation is supplied, and everything 
is done which experience can suggest to make 
these steamers the best in the coasting- trade. 

All these ships are fitted up in the most superb 
and substantial manner. The saloons and state- 



27 

rooms are luxuriously furnished and elegantly 
decorated, carpeted and upholstered, while the 
fine-toned piano, together with the paintings 
which adorn the walls, add to the enjoyment of 
passengers. A broad, well-lighted staircase leads 
to the main saloon, which is in the middle of the 
vessel, and possesses ample accommodation for 
dining one hundred persons. Each guest has 
his own seat secured to him at the beginning of 
the voyage, which consists of a handsomely 
upholstered revolving chair, that can be taken at 
any time during the progress of the meal without 
disturbing others. 

The tables are well supplied with every luxury 
of the season, and during the service of the 
meal there is nothing to indicate that one is 
on shipboard ; in fact, the dining saloon is on 
the table d'hote plan of a city hotel. Every 
attention is paid to the wishes and comfort of 
passengers. The fare for this 500 or 600 miles 
of ocean voyage seems very reasonable, when we 
consider that, should hotel rates be deducted from 
the sum, the fare on this line would average but 
one cent a mile. 

During the company's whole career of fifteen 
years, through the worst storms and series of 



28 

marine disasters, these steamships have always 
passed in perfect safety, and not a single life 
entrusted to its care has ever been lost. An 
immense amount of freight is transported north 
and south by this line. Many would wonder 
what could be done with such an amount as is 
brought almost daily to Newport News. Such 
an apparently dead-and-alive place surely could 
not use or make it profitable. But we learned 
that it is from here scattered throughout the 
south, south-west and west, by the numerous 
connecting lines of railway. 

Agents of the company say that they probably 
transact business on as large a scale as any 
other company in this country. The freight 
taken southward consists of all kinds of merchan- 
dise ; while the vessels return laden with all the 
various agricultural products of field, and forest, 
and mine, consisting of cotton, tobacco, rice, pea- 
nuts, logs, lumber, ore, marble, granite, and also 
fish, oysters, etc. 

The line commenced fifteen years ago, with 
three steamers of less than 3,000 tons burden 
combined. Its present popularity and efficiency 
are largely due to the indefatigable energy and 
indomitable zeal of the General Superintendent, 



2 9 

together with the efficient corps of Officers of 
the Old Dominion Steamship Company. 

A walk through the small, sleepy town of New- 
port News, with its one large hotel, underneath 
which is the Custom House, Post Office, and 
prominent stores of the place, brings us in sight 
of the Casino near the water, which is surrounded 
by an attractive garden, beautiful with trees, 
flowers, shrubs, arbors, an observatory and 
fountain. 

This park belongs to the Hotel Warwick, and 
was laid out for the amusement of its o-uests. 
The hotel is a handsome building, and is said to 
have accommodations for three hundred persons. 
We extended our walk to the beach, and picked 
up some simple shells and pebbles, such as we 
find at our own Coney Island. Gathering some 
bright wild flowers on the way, we retraced our 
steps to the Gtiyandotte, and found supper await- 
ing us. 

In the evening- we gathered in the elegant 
saloon below, where, with music, singing and 
cheerful conversation, the hours passed, till the 
time arrived when Captain Bourne and family 
were obliged to leave, to continue their journey 
to Omaha. This first break in our little party 



3Q 

was felt and regretted by all. Later, we retired 
to our state-rooms to sleep soundly till six next 
morning. Then awoke to find ourselves at West 
Point, Va., with the song of the negro, at this 
landing also, ringing in our ears, as the work of 
unlading the balance of the cargo was here car- 
ried on. Steaming up the York River in the 
night, our slumbers had not been disturbed, and 
though we had thus doubtless passed many places 
of interest and beauty along the shore, we were 
refreshed for the day of sight-seeing before us. 




CHAPTER III. 



BY RAIL. 

" Lo ! here is poetry — the Railway Train ! 
First the shrill whistle, then the distant roar, 

The ascending cloud of steam, the gleaming brass, 
The mighty moving arm ; and on amain 
The mass comes thundering like an avalanche o'er 

The quaking earth : a thousand faces pass — ■ 
A moment, and are gone like whirlwind sprites, 
Scarce seen ; so much the roaring speed benights 
All sense and recognition for awhile ; 
A little space, a minute, and a mile. 
Then look again, how swift it journeys on — 
Away, away, along the horizon, 
Like drifted cloud, to its determined place ; 
Power, speed, and distance, melting into space." 

PROM West Point, fifteen of our party, at 
8 a.m., took train for Richmond, the others 
returning by the Guyandotte. The Pamunkey and 
Mattapony rivers meet at this place and form the 
York river. The railroad runs along the bank of 
the Pamunkey river, which is a beautiful winding- 
stream, broken by lakes and islands, and fringed 
with the wild honeysuckle and white blossoms of 
the dogwood, while water-lilies in full bloom smiled 



3 2 

up at us from its clear depths. The tempting 
blossoms, hanging in such profusion just beyond 
our reach, nearly set our travelers wild with long- 
ings for the unattainable. 

As we speed onward, our attention is arrested 
by the peculiar names of the different stations 
called out by the conductor, many of them of 
Indian origin; Cohoke, Roman Coke, Sweet 
Hall, Lester Manor, Mattapony, Whitehouse 
Landing, &c. At Lester Manor a group of per- 
sons of distinguished bearing came aboard, one 
of whom, we soon after learned, was a noted ex- 
Confederate officer, Col. William R. Aylett, Vir- 
ginia's most eloquent orator, and at present act- 
ing as counsel for the Commonwealth in the 
famous murder trial of Cluverius. 

Col. Aylett with his family were on their 
way to Richmond, and in friendly converse 
with him, was the opposing counsel in the 
case, Mr. Pollard, an ex-Confederate cavalry 
officer. Learning we were from the North, 
and in search of information, Col. Aylett kindly 
and most cordially entertained us with incidents 
of the battles, in which he had himself taken 
a prominent part, and pointed out to us the very 
places along the road we were passing, that had 



33 

been occupied by the opposing armies in the 
fearful days of the Rebellion. 

Col. Aylett is a gentleman of polished man- 
ners and captivating address, and is most 
highly and justly esteemed in and around Rich- 
mond where he is best known. He was several 
times wounded during the war, though not seri- 
ously, and was once taken prisoner. From a 
box of choice flowers his wife was. taking to 
friends in the city, he picked some lovely speci- 
mens and proffered them as coming from his fine 
plantation, where he has a large plat of ground 
set apart for the cultivation of flowers, his wife 
being passionately fond of them, and able to 
call each by name. Among the many to us un- 
known, we recognized some familiar faces in the 
Johnny-jumper, trumpet-vine, blue and white lu- 
pins, white honeysuckle, and the ever sweet and 
lovely rose-bud. 

Col. Aylett showed us an old watch, curious in 
workmanship, over one hundred years old, 
brought over from England in the old Colonial 
days, an heir-loom in the family, mentioned in 
every will, and left to the eldest son. Inside the 
heavy case of old gold, on one face, he showed the 
delicate tracer)- of lacework, fine and exquisite in 



34 

design, though now yellow with age, and slightly 
torn on one side, cut with scissors, as he told us, 
by his great-grandmother long years ago. This 
is but an instance of the value put upon heir- 
looms and mementoes of the past by those of our 
old families who can claim a history. This is true 
everywhere, north and south, at home or abroad. 
It is only the newly-fledged aristocracy, who care 
not to look too far into the past, who value only 
modern and showy furniture, and the jewel of latest 
design and newest fashion. 

White House, where the train stopped for a 
moment, is said to be the site of Washington's 
marriage to Martha Custis in 1759. During the 
late war it was an important depot of supplies. 

At Savage Station one of the most desperate and 
sanguinary battles of the " Seven Days' Fighting" 
under McClellan, in his retreat to the James River, 
was fought. A section of the earthworks and 
rifle-pits then thrown up, still remains and the 
position of the contending forces can be distinctly 
discerned. This station had been the depot for 
unloading and storing supplies for the troops. 
On the north side of the railroad was a cleared 
field of several acres, which was occupied as a 
Camp Hospital, containing twenty-five hundred 



6D 

sick and wounded men, with the necessary sur- 
geons and attendants. The tents were laid out 
in rows, each accommodating fifteen or twenty 
disabled soldier's on clean, comfortable beds. 

About 5 p.m. of Sunday, June 29th, 1862, a hot 
sultry day, the battle of Savage Station began, 
and raged with great fury till darkness ended the 
fight. The Union forces steadily drove back the 
Confederates, but with heavy loss, particularly in 
the 5th Vermont Regiment, which had been 
nearly annihilated in a desperate charge upon the 
enemy. When the engagement was over, our 
troops held the contested field. And when it was 
suggested to Gen. Sumner that he should carry 
out Gen. McClellan's orders, and cross White 
Oak Swamp that night, his indignant reply was : 
"No! I never leave a victorious field." But Gen. 
Sumner was at last convinced of the necessity of 
the movement, and with reluctance complied. 
But the field hospital, with the sick, wounded and 
attendants, had to be left behind, when the army 
fell back during the night. 

Gen. W. B. Franklin, in his account of this 
fight, declares that " no such material for soldiers 
was ever in the field before. They had been 
soldiers less than a year, yet their behavior in 



36 

this movement foreshadowed that of the success- 
ful veterans of the Appomattox." 

We passed the battle-ground of Fair Oaks, or 
Seven Pines, as it is called here, from seven trees 
standing in the cemetery near by. Col. Aylett 
was wounded in this battle, and taken prisoner at 
Sailors' Station, Appomattox. The Union fortifi- 
cations were here of great strength ; but recently 
a foreigner bougfht the field and in making im- 
provements, leveled them to the ground. A 
National Military Cemetery is maintained here 
by the government. 

McClellan's headquarters cannot be seen from 
the road. But in the spacious door-yard still 
stand the old trees from which the name of 
"Fair Oaks" was derived. The tops of all 
these oaks are gone, shot off a score of years 
ago, when balls and shells were flying thick and 
fast. Shattered trees and trunks of old pines 
fairly honeycombed with bullets, attest the fierce 
and bitter strife. 

After what seemed a very short ride, full of 
interest and delight, we entered Richmond and 
alighted at the depot, a long, low, whitewashed, 
wooden shed; and this we found to be an apparent 
model for all like structures in the State. Leav- 



37 

ing our baggage on the steamer Old Dominion, by 
which we were to return to New York, we took a 
short ride round the city on our way to take train 
for Petersburg. The hacks, and colored drivers 
with their invariably smiling faces and seeming 
look of welcome to the stranger, present a marked 
contrast to the hackmen of New York. It is said 
that one-half the population of the city is colored, 
and, from the number of black faces encountered 
at every turn, we could readily believe it. 



4ssS& 



CHAPTER IV. 



EN ROUTE FOR PETERSBURG. 

But that broad causeway will direct your way, 

And you may reach the town by noon of day. — Dryden. 

A T eleven, a. M.,we left the city for Petersburg, 
the theater of some of the most momen- 
tous scenes of the great drama of the civil war. 
Leaving Richmond, we can form a better idea of 
the strength and almost impregnable character 
of the breastworks and defences thrown up 
around that city. For miles out, the entire dis- 
tance is ridged with redoubts and indented with 
rifle-pits ; the whole line of road is historic. At 
Drewry's Bluff can be seen at intervals, the 
chain of earthworks, a quarter of a mile apart, 
thrown up by Beauregard, now overgrown by 
underbrush and pines. 

A terrific battle was fought here on the 16th 
of May, 1864. Butler charged and tried to 
carry the fortifications, but was repulsed three 
times, with heavy loss. The carnage at this 



39 

place was fearful, and bones and skeletons are 
still found in the woods around, of the brave 
men who had fallen in battle. The building is 
still standing- at Chester Station that was used 
as a hospital for four or five days by Butler. 
The railroad was here torn up for five miles. 
The earthworks thrown up by Gen. Grant can 
be seen near Fort Hawthorn. 

We met Dr. Hartman, of Petersburg, on the 
train, to whom we are indebted for many 
incidents of interest. Of Northern birth, Dr. 
Hartman was forced into the rebel ranks, while 
his heart and sympathy were with the Union. 
While thus compelled to take up arms against 
his country, he had a father and brother fight- 
ing under the old flag ; and thus to him were 
known all the horrors of a civil war. 




• • 






CHAPTER V. 



PETERSBURG. 

Now civil wounds are stopped, peace lives again ; 
That she may long live here, God say — Amen ! 

— King Richard III* 

\ li TE arrived in this quaint old city a little past 
noon, and took our way to the Boiling- 
brook hotel, a large, square, stuccoed edifice, 
where, our coming having been telegraphed, we 
found dinner in readiness, and our party sat 
down to a table laden with choice Southern 
dishes. After doing full justice to the menu, we 
were ready to add our testimony to that of others 
— that this hotel is justly famed for its fine 
table. 

Taking carriages, we were driven out of the 
city via the Jerusalem Plank Road, visiting the 
fields of conflict around this battle-scarred town, 
where some of the most stupendous and sanguin- 
ary struggles of the war took place. These 



4i 

battle fields were rendered of special interest to 
us by the fact that one of our number, Mr. H. 
P. Smith, was seriously wounded in the charge 
on Fort Stedman, over Harrow's old race course, 
where raged the terrific conflict of the iSth of 
June, 1864, twelve thousand killed and wounded 
on both sides. 

The old locust tree, under which he, with other 
wounded, had gained a momentary shelter from 
the leaden hail of that fearful clay, was found 
still standing, apparently unchanged — a lonely 
sentinel to mark the seat of carnage and death 
of twenty years ago. Sketches having been 
taken of the old tree, our visitors contented 
themselves with carrying away as trophies, some 
of its murderous looking thorns, and picking up 
from the field old canteens and pieces of ex- 
ploded shells. 

Our intelligent colored drivers served as guides. 
They have the history of each place by heart, 
and by continued repetition and addition, have 
their story complete in all details ; told with the 
pure negro accent, only heard in its perfection 
at the South, new interest was given to the theme. 
Our driver, with mustache, tall hat and white 
duster, who went under the euphonious name of 




I J .jriWi'/k^, ,::■ < 

Old Lootjst Tree. 
From a pen-and-ink sketch by L. S. Squier. 



43 

"Dixie," was a genuine specimen of the real 
Southern darkie, the house-servant of slavery- 
times, happy, careless, contented. 

He had belonged to Gen. Littlejohn, and 
served him as a hostler during the war of the 
Rebellion. When asked if he wasn't just as 
happy when a slave as now, he answered : 
"To tell de truf, yes. I had a good massa. 
De only trouble I eber hab was when I cry 
for de udder niggers who did not hab any kind- 
ness." Indeed, his face was sunshine, black as it 
was, and he seemed one of those natures who 
find only joy in all the vicissitudes of life. In 
winding up his simple history he said, turning his 
beaming countenance upon his auditors, "I now 
owns my own team, and I nebber hab any bad 
luck; and it seems as if I's just born for good 
times." 

The fields around here, where thousands were 
killed and wounded, are now covered with the 
blood-red blossoms of the German clover. The 
ladies picked bouquets of the beautiful flowers', 
at the same time weaving a little mental romance, 
to tell, as they exhibited their blossoms to 
wondering eyes at the North, how the sympa- 
thetic clover turned to its present deep-red hue 



45 

in consequence of the blood so freely shed 
years ago. 

About a mile out from the city, on an eminence 
to the left, stands the Old Blandford Church, 
now but a ruin. About its crumbling- walls 
cluster the memories of a century and a half. 
It witnessed the early struggles between the 
aborigines and the early settlers. It was old 
when our infant Republic was born. It has 
stood unscathed through all the many changes 
and scenes of war and peace in the history of our 
beloved land, till in hoary age it looked out upon 
the closing drama of the war for the Union, 
enacted almost at its very doors. The old ivy- 
grown walls remain intact, but the windows are 
gone, and the flooring has rotted away. The 
church has not been used as a place of public 
worship since the early part of the present 
century, from which time its decay has been 
very rapid. The bricks of which it was built 
were brought from England in 1735. Inside, 
the church is bare of furniture or decoration. 
Two wooden tablets adorn the walls on which 
are inscribed some appropriate and beautiful 
lines, composed by a visitor to this venerable 
pile. 



46 



"these lines were written on these walls forty years 
ago by some unknown person." 

Thou art crumbling to the dust, old pile ! 

Thou art hastening to thy fall, 
And 'round thee in thy loneliness 

Clings the ivy to thy wall. 
The worshippers are scattered now 

Who knelt before thy shrine, 
And silence reigns where anthems rose 

In days of " Auld Lang Syne." 

And sadly sighs the wandering wind, 

Where oft, in years gone by, 
Prayers rose from many hearts to Him, 

The Highest of the High ; 
The tramp of many a busy foot 

That sought thy aisles, is o'er, 
And many a weary heart around, 

Is still forever morel 

How doth ambition's hope take wing, 

How droops the spirit now ! 
We hear the distant city's din ; 

The dead are mute below. 
The sun that shone upon their paths 

Now gilds their lonely graves ; 
The zephyrs which once fanned their brows, 

The grass above them waves. 

Oh ! could we call the many back 

Who've gathered here in vain, — 
Who've careless roved where we do now, 

Who'll never meet again : 
How would our very souls be stirred, 

To meet the earnest gaze 
Of the lovely and the beautiful, 

The lights of other days. 

— A Stranger. 

There have been many claimants to the author- 
ship of these verses, but the preponderance of 
evidence is in harmony with the popular belief 



47 

that they are from the pen of Tyrone Power, an 
Irish actor of versatile talents, who was visiting 
the city at the time the lines were discovered 
written in pencil on the crumbling wall, in 1841. 
His not infrequent contributions to the local 
papers had made his name and fame familiar 
to the residents of Petersburg-. But his sudden 
and tragic death on one of the Mississippi steam- 
boats shortly afterwards, has forever prevented 
the positive verification of the authorship. 

Under these verses is an oaken tablet bearing 
the names of thirteen persons killed here during 
the Revolutionary war, when a troop of British 
cavalry made a raid upon the church. 

Thus to more than one sanguinary deed, 
perpetrated within its walls, has this old sanc- 
tuary been a witness in days that are gone. 
A foreigner of gentle birth, noble presence, 
and fascinating manners, settled in this city, 
and entered extensively into business. He 
became deeply enamored with the beauty and 
winning graces of the daughter of a prom- 
inent citizen. At first he believed his attach- 
ment reciprocated. But her sudden marriage 
to another cast a blight upon his existence, 
and he sought the solitude of this old 



4 8 

ruin, where he might end his misery with his 
life. 

The cemetery has been enlarged since the 
war, to four or five times its former size, the 
whole surrounded by a high, substantial, brick 
wall. The original wall, partly fallen to decay, 
and overgrown with ivy, still stands ; and within 
this inner inclosure, are to be found the ancient 
tombstones, defaced by time and covered with 
mould, some of the inscriptions being wholly 
illegible. General Phillips, of Revolutionary 
memory, was taken sick in Petersburg in 1781, 
when the British forces held possession of that 
city. After a short illness he died, and was 
buried in the south-eastern ande of this old 
church-yard. He was a haughty and cruel 
enemy ; and, accompanied by Arnold, wantonly 
destroyed the shipping in the river, and private 
dwellings, besides committing many other like 
outrages. 

The oldest date decipherable in the grave- 
yard is 1702. Near the church a broad and 
heavy head-stone is pointed out, finely carved 
at the top, with a medallion group of the three 
persons interred beneath. It was struck by a 
shell and a minie-ball, when the city was under 



49 

fire from the Union guns, a piece carried away, 
and the stone broken completely across the 
center. But the fracture was of such a char- 
acter, that the upper half has been replaced, 
and set in a sort of groove, where by a touch it 
can be rocked back and forth, yet will not fall. 
The quaint inscription on this old stone reads: 



Here Lyes 

The Body of A. M. M c Connald 

Who Departed this Life, 

The 29 th of Oct br in th Year 

1788 in the 49 th y ear of his age. 

Also The Body of Jane 

M c Connald Who Depa td 

This Life the i st of November 

In the 30 th Year of her age 

And Daniel M c Connald 

Who Departed this Life the 

12 th of June 1790, the 2 d year of 

His Age. 



The cemetery is still used as a place of burial, 
and from here a lovely view can be obtained of 



5o 

the surrounding country. Every foot of ground 
for miles around this church is historic, having 
been fought over and over again by the con- 
tending armies. 

As we continue our ride, Gen. Hancock's head- 
quarters are pointed out, and further along, those 
of Gen. Grant can be discerned. Also the little 
church built by the Union soldiers at Poplar 
Grove, during the long and weary siege of 1864-5, 
afterwards, when about to leave for Five Forks, 
presented by them to their enemies. 




CHAPTER VI. 



"THE CRATER." 

A thousand glorious actions that might claim 
Triumphant laurels, and immortal fame, 
Confused in clouds of glorious actions lie, 
And troops of heroes undistinguish'd die. — Addison. 

A SHORT distance on is a sharp declivity. 
Dismounting from our carriages and as- 
cending the slope, we stand upon the edge of the 
"Crater," the chasm created by the great mine 
explosion under Fort Pilgrim. It is now covered 
with a rank growth of underbrush and small trees ; 
and here, in the very mouth of the "Crater," one 
of our party discovered a bird's nest, — emblem of 
the long years of peace and promise which have 
intervened since those days of deadly carnage. 
The origin of the "Crater" was as follows: 
Lieut.-Col. Pleasants, with his battalion of 
Sappers and Miners from Pennsylvania, con- 
ceived the idea of mining and blowing up a 
battery of the enemy. This did not at first 
meet with much encouragement from head- 



52 

quarters, but by persistence Col. Pleasants finally 
gained permission to carry out his scheme. 
Though successful, it was productive of no 
benefit to the Union arms, because of the 
failure of the proper officers to follow it up with 
an immediate and decisive charge. Had this fail- 
ure not occurred the fort would probably have 
fallen an easy prey to our arms. 

The mining was commenced the 25th of June, 
1864, and completed the 28th of July. The 
charge consisted of eight thousand pounds of 
powder. The size of the "Crater" was over 
200 feet long, by 50 feet wide, and 25 feet 
deep. The explosion took place at daybreak 
on the 30th of July. The enemy, having 
obtained information of the existence of the 
mine, had commenced searching for it, and 
Gen. Lee had a counter-mine, in the shape of a 
crescent, sunk in front of the very spot where 
the explosion took place. 

From the ed^e of the "Crater" the whole vast 
arena of war lies spread out before the spectator. 
The ground is broken by lines of redoubts, 
batteries, and fortifications, erected by the Union 
army. These must be seen to be appreciated in 
their magnitude. From the Appomattox, on the 



right, to Hatches' Run, on the left, is an un- 
broken line of defences many miles long ; while 
opposed to them fort for fort, and battery for 
battery, is an almost parallel line of fortifications 
thrown up by the Confederate army. In some 
places the opposing lines are not more than 
three hundred feet apart. The closing scenes of 
the war were here enacted. For long weeks and 
months these contending forces had faced each 
other, watchful and vigilant, though in apparent 
inactivity. But with the spring of '65 the armies 
roused to action, and the thunder and roar of 
battle was heard on every side. Here President 
Lincoln visited the army and reviewed the troops 
one short month before he passed away from the 
scenes of earth forever. 

The assaults upon forts Baldwin and Gregg 
are claimed to be two of the most brilliant of the 
war. With their fall the fate of Petersburg was 
sealed. From the parapet the " stars and stripes " 
were unfurled to the breeze with a mighty shout 
from the victorious army. 

The owner of Griffith Farm, the old battle 
ground, derives a good revenue by the exhibition 
of relics. He has a building devoted to memen- 
toes of the war, which are shown to tourists, and 



54 

each is expected to make some remuneration for 
a sight of these really valuable trophies, together 
with the general information given of personal 
incidents and recollections of battle. One rifle 
was shown with a minie-ball in the stock, and 
otherwise fairly riddled with bullets and other 
projectiles. Two minie-balls flattened against 
each other into a perfect bull's-eye were about the 
most wonderful objects displayed. They had 
evidently been projected with equal force from 
opposite directions, and meeting in mid-air point 
to point, had thus been stopped on their errand 
of death ; according to the sentiment expressed 
by our artist friend, Mr. Baker, symbolical of the 
insolubility of our Union, — "one and insepar- 
able." 

There are said to be tons of metal lying 
about the country in this neighborhood. Every 
season the farmers plough up bullets, buttons, and 
shells whole and in fragments. On every hand 
can be picked up balls imbedded in wood, old 
carbines, sabres, spurs, buckles, rusty locks and 
pieces of guns, that have lain there for a score of 
years. Our party did not pass this rich oppor- 
tunity by, and when we re-entered our carriages 
for the return trip, it was to find them already 



paved with bombs and cannon-balls, rusty can- 
teens and bayonets, to be taken north as memen- 
toes of the war. 

Leaving the " Crater," we drove by green 
meadows and cultivated fields, passing the huts 
and log cabins of the negro, with chimneys, often 
of solid masonwork, built on the outside. In 
many instances the cabin had entirely disap- 
peared, and only the chimney remained. Little 
darkies with one garment on, laughing and grin- 
ning, with groups of all ages and colors in the 
background, formed a picture for an artist's 
pencil. The bare-footed negro ploughing in the 
field, with one steer harnessed with old ropes and 
chains, or strips of sheepskin, is an example of 
contentment and industry. 

Rifle-pits and breast-works appear all along the 
roadside, and mark the line of battle. We had 
time for only a look at Fort Davis, a large 
square fortification, in comparatively good condi- 
tion. Fort Sedgwick is pointed out, being nearly 
hidden by a growth of tall grass and young trees. 
During the war it acquired the very irreverent 
sobriquet of " Fort Hell," from its exposed and 
prominent position, and the almost constant fire 
kept up. Fort Mahone, which opposed it, was 




Negro Cabin. 



57 

stigmatized " Fort Damnation." It is said 
"scarcely a day passed without witnessing a 
heavy artillery duel, and each hour could be 
heard the shrill sharp report of some iron mes- 
senger of death." 

The history of this old town is full of interest, 
from the time of the first permanent settlement 
made at the head of navigation on the Appo- 
mattox river, in 1645, and the erection of Fort 
Henry, on the present site of Petersburg. It 
figured conspicuously both in the War of Inde- 
pendence, and that of 181 2, and also in the 
Mexican War. In 1780, a strong force of 
British troops, under the command of the traitor 
Arnold, was sent to subdue the rebellious colony. 
The invaders met with but feeble resistance 
from the colonial troops, and much public and 
private property was destroyed. But the fol- 
lowing year, the city made a gallant stand 
against the invaders, and they were successfully 
repulsed. Although a reward of five thousand 
guineas was offered by the Governor for his 
head, Arnold reached Portsmouth in safety. 
The honorable part borne by Petersburg in 
the War of 181 2, gained for her the proud 
title of the Cockade City. 



58 

Petersburg boasts the second-largest tobacco 
manufactory in the United States. It is a quiet 
town, not much changed since war times. Busi- 
ness is good, and by industry and frugality many 
shattered fortunes have been repaired, and 
ruined homes rebuilt. With a confused picture 
of what had been seen, surging through the 
brain, we left our carriages and friendly drivers 
at the depot, to find ourselves just in time 
for the evening train. 




CHAPTER VII. 



BACK TO RICHMOND. 

Through the mould and through the clay, 

Through the corn and through the hay, 

By the margin of the lake, 

O'er the river, through the brake, 

O'er the bleak and dreary moor. 

On we hie with screech and roar, 

Splashing ! flashing ! 

Crashing ! dashing ! 
Over ridges, gullies, bridges ! 

By the bubbling rill and mill, 

Highways, by-ways, Hollowhill. 
****** 
On ! on ! with a thump, and a bump, and a roll ! 
Hiss the fire-fiend to its destined goal ! 

— Matthew Hale Smith. 

r I "HE soil of Virginia is very peculiar. On 
the surface it is sandy, and to the casual 
observer seems barren ; in fact the poverty of this 
sacred soil is generally acknowledged. But we 
observed along the line of the railroad, where the 
earth had been turned over and dug out to any 
depth, a substratum of red clay beneath the sandy 
surface, the soil presenting in many places all the 
colors of the rainbow in the upheaved earth. 



6o 

A fellow-traveler, a native Virginian, near us, 
remarked: "Our soil is poor in itself, but it is 
very kind. With its clay bottom it holds all that 
is put on it. We use fertilizers in raising wheat 
and corn, a sort of shell marl which, with a little 
thrift and energy produces good crops." 

South of Petersburg is the peanut raising 
country. Around the Appomattox, tobacco is 
the staple product. The seasons seem to have 
changed within a few years, and are at least a 
month later in this State than formerly. 

Without special event of moment, at 6 p.m. we 
a second time entered the Capital City, and 
tired and hungry, sought the Old Dominion. 
Captain Smith gave us a hearty welcome, and we 
sat down to a supper served in fine style. 

The Captain, a tried and trusted officer, 
possesses the power of making his guests feel 
at home, by his easy, affable manners and pleas- 
ing conversation. He enjoys equally a game of 
whist or euchre, or a quiet social chat. Yet one 
never forgets he is in the presence of the com- 
mander of the ship, one always prompt and 
ready, attending personally to all duties. The 
Old Dominion is a side-wheeler, slower than the 
Guyandotte, but a stanch steamship, with large 



6i 

saloons and state-rooms, furnished with elegance 
and taste. 

Having letters from friends in Brooklyn to 
several prominent citizens of Richmond, we called 
that evening on Col. Norman Randolph, an ex- 
Confederate officer, a true Virginian gentleman, 
and a direct descendant of Pocahontas. We 
were kindly and cordially received and enter- 
tained, the Colonel afterwards sending invita- 
tions to the opening of the Lee Home for 
Confederate soldiers. This building, now com- 
plete, was put up largely by subscriptions from 
members of the Grand Army of the Republic 
throughout the Union, many being in the city 
at this time, by invitation, as guests at the 
opening. 

The people of the South, with commendable 
spirit, have accepted the results of the War, 
and now affirm that the unhappy differences of 
the past, have been buried below the touch of 
resurrection. They see a new era opening 
before them, in the growing interests of the 
country, giving promise of a return of wealth, 
industry and enterprise. Strangers are gladly 
welcomed to the Old Dominion, and are re- 
ceived on their own merits. As a Virginian 



62 



remarked in our hearing: "We know a gen- 
tleman as soon as we see one, and welcome 
him as such, without regard to nationality. 
But we don't fraternize with Northern ad- 
venturers." 

" No more shall the war-cry sever, 
Or the winding rivers be red ; 
They banish our anger forever 

When they laurel the graves of our dead ! 
Under the sod and the dew, 

Waiting the judgment-day ; 
Love and tears for the Blue, 
Tears and love for the Gray." 



CHAPTER VIII. 



RICHMOND. 

Dull would he be of soul who could pass by 
A sight so touching in its majesty ; 
This city now doth like a garment wear 
The beauty of the morning ; silent, bear, 
Ships, towers, domes, theaters and temples lie, 
Open unto the fields and to the sky, 
All bright and glittering in the smokeless air. 
****** 

The river glideth at its own sweet will, 
****** 

And all that mighty heart is lying still. — Wordsworth. 

\Ji 7E started out next morning early to see 
Richmond by daylight. Took carriages, 
but found the drivers less intelligent than at 
Petersburg. We first stopped at the famed 
Libby Prison, a miserable, rough brick structure, 
now used as a fertilizing manufactory, the odor 
therefrom being overpowering to ordinary nerves, 
some being prostrated thereby. Others anxious 
to penetrate to the inner recesses, where the 
names of prisoners were carved on the floors, 



6 4 

windows and doors, were not desirous of long 
lingering over the scenes of a sad and horrible 
past, but were glad soon to escape from the odors 
of the present and the memories of the past. It 
seems fitting that this place of torment and misery 
of other times, should continue to be one of 
abhorrence and disgust to the present day. 

Washington's headquarters were pointed out, 
— an old dilapidated stone building, unimposing 
and unattractive, except historically. We went 
through a large tobacco factory, and were shown 
the different processes the weed passes through, 
from the crude leaf to the highest state of refine- 
ment. Several hundred boys and girls, and men 
and women were at work. These hands, mostly 
blacks, seemed to enjoy the employment, singing 
merrily over their work. Their average wages 
are said to be from $6.00 to $8.00 a week. 

From thence we drove to Hollywood Ceme- 
tery, situated on a high eminence overlooking the 
James River. It is a beautiful spot, with a lovely 
view of woods, rivers, hills and plains. The 
avenues are steep and shaded by huge oaks of 
natural growth, and holly-trees ; roses were in full 
bloom and flowering shrubs laden with blossoms. 
We alighted and stood by the tomb of President 



65 

Monroe, picking a tea-rose bud growing beside 
the grave. The simple inscription reads: 



James Monroe, 

Born in Westminster, Va., 

28th April, 1758 ; 

Died in the City of New York, 

July 4th, 1831. 



The tomb of President Tyler is near by, un- 
marked by even a stone. The monument to the 
Confederate dead is an object of special interest 
and beauty. It is a pyramid of light gray stone, 
fifty feet square at the base, and ninety feet in 
height, covered nearly to the summit with the 
Virginia-creeper — the woodbine of the North. 
It was erected by the ladies of Virginia in honor 
of their dead. It has been stated, though not 
vouched for as a fact, that the cap-stone was 
placed upon the top by a convict from the States 
Prison, who was granted his liberty for accom- 
plishing the feat. Around the foot of this monu- 
ment are 12,000 graves, each marked by a single 
stake. 

Under the shade of a large pine, in the 



66 

southwestern part of the Soldiers' Cemetery, 
stands a plain granite shaft, on which is inscribed : 

"Catherine Hodges, Co. K., 5th La., 1863." 

One woman among an army of men. In some 
of the city parades that marked the early days of 
the war, she would march, in gay costume, at 
the head of the command to which she was 
attached. Her mission was to nurse the sick and 
care for the wounded; but disease soon struck 
her down, and she was buried amidst the soldiers 
she had tended in life. 

Coming back, we passed the Barracks which 
were occupied by the Union Forces while 
Richmond was in military possession of Gen. 
Grant ; also passing the Governor's residence. 
We drove by the State Penitentiary with its 
whitewashed walls, and learned that nine out of 
ten of all the inmates were negroes. Our at- 
tention was just here arrested by a chain-gang- 
going to work; all were colored men. Indeed, 
the great number of negroes on every hand is a 
marked feature. We passed groups of ebony 
cherubs, and others as dark but not so cherubic, 
arrayed in all garbs and colors. 

The vehicles in the streets of Richmond are 



68 

peculiar. The teams are for the most part one 
mule ; though sometimes one sees two mules 
driven tandem ; or perhaps one little steer har- 
nessed with ropes, and hitched to a clumsy two- 
wheeled cart. These are the farm wagons of 
Virginia. 




Farm Wagon of Virginia. 



Here our paths divided, as we parted from our 
fellow tourists to call on a friend, and were 
by him persuaded to remain and visit his family, 
at their residence in the upper part of the city. 
Thus we had an opportunity to see more of 



6 9 

the attractions of this beautiful and picturesque 
city. These friends, being acquainted with all 
objects and points of special interest and beauty 
in and around the Capital, took us in their car- 
riage to various places not before visited. 

Richmond, like Rome, is built on seven hills, 
and is noted for the beauty of its river scenery 
and surroundings. We first drove to Chimborazo 
Park, with its well-kept grassy lawns and smooth 
drives. Our attention was arrested by the signs 
up here and there: "Stock Must Not Depre- 
date." From thence we went to Churchill Park, 
located on a high elevation commanding a fine 
prospect of city and river. 

" Here hills and vales, the woodland and the plain, 
Here earth and water seem to strive again." 

From this point we took some fine views of city, 
river, and surrounding country. We next visited 
Gamble Hill, overlooking the James, which forms 
an elbow at this point. In the foreground are seen 
the Navy Yard and Tredegar Iron Works, where 
were forged most of the heavy guns and war 
implements of the Rebellion. In the distance is 
Belle Isle, where Federal prisoners were confined 
during the War. The long iron railroad bridge, 
standing on its stone abutments, with its many 



intervening pillars for support, occupying- the site 
of the one burned by order of the military au- 
thorities on the evacuation of the city in 1865, 
stretches away imposingly upon the view. A 
number of hulks of vessels, blown up during the 
Rebellion, still remain in the river, forming 
obstructions to navigation at this point. The 
commerce of Richmond has, been steadily recov- 
ering from the effect of its almost total suspen- 
sion during war times. Regular steamers now 
ply between that city and New York, Philadel- 
phia, Baltimore and Norfolk. Richmond is 
divided into two sections. The lower and older 
portion is devoted to business ; commerce and 
tobacco manufactories being the most important 
of its industries. The upper part of the city is 
very beautiful, having many charming avenues 
lined with shade-trees, while fine residences and 
elegant mansions surrounded by gardens, are 
fairly hidden in rich foliage and shrubbery, from 
which are wafted cool odorous breaths. It was 
near the twilight hour when we alighted after 
this long and delightful drive. 

Having an amateur's photographic outfit with 
us, we sought the studio of some friendly artist, 
to beg: the use of his " dark-room " for change of 



7* 

plates. Fortune directed us to the elegant gal- 
lery of Campbell & Co., Broad Street, where 
the kind reception and cordial aid extended 
to us as strangers, when informed of our errand, 
will always be remembered. From Mr. Campbell 
we gained much interesting and valuable informa- 
tion in regard to places and persons, spiced with 
many racy anecdotes, told with a charm of man- 
ner, at once forceful and impressive. His por- 
traits of prominent men of the South were finely 
executed, and showed, in the clear delineation 
and natural pose of the figure, the true artist. 
One portrait of the daughter of Wade Hamp- 
ton was especially lovely. 



&6>f 




CHAPTER IX. 



AN EARLY STROLL. 

" The dewy morn, 
' With breath all incense, and with cheek all bloom, 
Laughing the clouds away with playful scorn, 
And living as if earth contained no tomb, 
And glowing into day." 

\li TE were up by dawn next morning, deter- 
mined to lose no hours of daylight in 
our all too limited visit to this charming Southern 
city. Wending our way to Capitol Square, we 
passed through the high iron gates into the 
Park, to obtain a nearer view of Crawford's 
colossal equestrian statue of Washington, claimed 
to be the grandest work of the kind in this 
country. It is of bronze, elevated on an im- 
mense marble column ; while on pedestals, 
around and beneath Washington, are six pe- 
destrian figures, of Thomas Jefferson, Patrick 
Henry, and other of Virginia's illustrious sons. 
Surrounding the pedestal are allegorical figures 
in bronze, representing Colonial Times, Justice, 



73 

Finance, Independence, Bill of Rights, and 
Revolution. 

Not far from this monument is a fine bronze 
statue of Stonewall Jackson, standing upon a 
pedestal of Virginia granite, ten feet high. It 
is one of the best works of the late Mr. Foley, 
the great English sculptor. 

The Capitol is of the Graeco-composite style of 
architecture, unattractive save for its command- 
ing site, and historical associations and relics. 
It was modelled by Thomas Jefferson, after 




The Capitol. 

an ancient Roman temple in France, the cor- 
ner-stone being laid in i 785. Within the build- 
ing are the oldest State records in America, 
continuous from the year 1620. A fine statue 



74 

of the " Father of his Country," by Houdon, 
adorns the rotunda. This statue was made 
from models taken from casts of Washington's 
head and body. A bust of Lafayette, also by 
Houdon, is near this statue. 

An interesting relic is a stove made in Eng- 
land ; an elegant affair seven feet high, having 
three stories, and weighing: one ton. When 
shipped from London, the maker, under date 
of August 15th, 1770, declared it to be a 
" master-piece of workmanship, unsurpassed in 
grandeur and unequaled in all Europe." This 
stove was used in the Legislative Halls for 
sixty years, and afterwards served to warm the 
Rotunda of the Capitol for about forty years 
more. It was then laid away, its days of use- 
fulness over, and now stands an object of 
wonder and curiosity to the visitor. 

A fine view of the city and its surroundings 
can be obtained from the roof of the Capitol. 
The grounds are very beautiful with their well 
kept paths and swards, shaded by venerable elms, 
in and about which play the birds and squirrels : 
the latter so tame that they will nibble food 
out of one's hand, and even find their way into 
the pocket in search of peanuts. 



' 76 

With our now well-filled plate-holders, we ad- 
justed the camera, and proceeded to take photo- 
graphic views of Monument, Capitol, etc.; when 
suddenly Wilks' Post, of Trenton, N. J., appeared 
upon the scene. Easily persuading - the mem- 
bers to group themselves around Washington 
Monument, their military presence added an at- 
tractive feature to the view taken. 

Having secured pictures of those objects we 
deemed of special interest, we had about con- 
cluded it must be nearing the breakfast hour, 
and that our friends would become impatient 
at longer delay, when we were approached by a 
man in civilian's clothes, who, lifting his hat, 
said: "I beg pardon, but may I ask if you 
have been successful in taking views this morn- 
ing?" Being answered in the affirmative, he 
replied: "Well,. I am glad to hear it, and wish 
to congratulate you, for an old statute has 
recently been brought to light, making i\ un- 
lawful to take photographs of public places or 
buildings within the city limits, without a license; 
and, as the revenue officer, it would have been 
my duty to have stopped you, had I arrived 
earlier on the scene." Residents of Richmond 
say, with impatience, one can hardly wink in this 
city without a license. 



77 

Well satisfied with the success of our morning 
stroll, we retraced our steps to the house 
without further adventure or incident of moment ; 
soon after bidding adieu to our friends, with 
many thanks for courtesies extended. 

Taking horse-cars, we rode to the suburbs, and 



- -, .A* " 




H.ORSE-CAR. 

there strolled at leisure through the different 
streets, back to the more bustling thoroughfares 
of the city. 

Among other memorable places seen, was the 
home of Mrs. Van Lews, which was, during the 



78 

war, a sort of house of refuge for Union soldiers. 
During the dark days of the Rebellion, this lady 
remained true to the flag of her country, and 
showed her devotion to the cause, by giving aid 
and succor to the suffering prisoners within the 
city. It is said that, at one time, twenty-five of 
these Union fugitives from the horrors of a rebel 
prison, were concealed by her, between the roof 
and ceilingjof the porch in the rear of her house, 
and afterwards aided, one by one, to escape. 




CHAPTER X. 



THE FEATHERED SONGSTERS OF 
THE SOUTH. 

Hear how the birds, on ev'ry blooming spray, 
With joyous music wake the dawning day ! 
Why sit we mute when early linnets sing, 
When warbling Philomel salutes the Spring ? 
Why sit we sad when Phosphor shines so clear, 
And lavish Nature paints the purple year? — Pope. 

~^HE singing of Southern birds is famous 
throughout the United States, and claims 
from us at least a passing notice. Every night 
and morning along the banks of the James river, 
bird concerts are given of so fine a character, that 
if announced to take place in New York, would 
close out all the theaters and operas on that 
night. 

The whistling of the crested-cardinals at 
four o'clock in the morning, is so deafening, that 
the stranger, hearing them for the first time, can- 
not sleep. The mocking-bird, considered by both 
Audabon and Tenny to be the superior of the 



8o 

English nightingale, combines in itself the love- 
passion of the English philomel for its mate, and 
the sky-lark's gate-knocking song at the very 
portals of heaven. 

This has become the musical sensation of the 
South. Northern ladies on the Mississippi steam- 
boats, put down on their shopping-cards such 
and such a notable store, and add : " Do not 
foreet to o-o to hear Dr. Palmer of New Orleans 
preach, and the mocking-bird sing." Its song 
is alone worth a trip to the South to hear. 

The following poem, picked up out of the garb- 
age-basket of a friend, will serve to exhibit the 
dilemma into which lovers find themselves some- 
times suddenly and inextricably plunged, through 
the mimicry and memory of this notorious echo- 
bird parodist : 

HOW THE MOCKING BIRD BROKE UP A MATCH. 

Down, 'way down on the shores of Alabamma, 

Down where the summer never dies, 
There lived a lovely maid, and the sparkling ripples played 

In the still dark eddies of her eyes. 
And 
This maiden had a lover, as you'll presently discover, 

Whom she lost very much to her surprise, 

Down where her love never dies, 
Down on the shores of Alabamma. 



I 



Down, 'way down in the groves of Alabamma, 

Down where the orange moonlight lies, 
Stood a man and maiden near, till he whispered " kiss me, dear, 

And she said, as she lifted up her eyes, 
" Yes, 
But don't you dare to tell Rob ; don't you, don't you tell him." 

And the rest you can easily surmise, 

Down where the orange moonlight lies, 
Down in the groves of Alabamma. 

Down, 'way down in the vales of Alabamma, 

Down where the mocking-bird replies, 
As Robert passed along, he heard this warning song 
From the voice of his beloved in disguise : 
" Yes, 
But don't you dare to tell Rob ; don't you, don't you tell him.'' 
. And thoughts very naturally arise, 

Down where the mocking-bird replies, 
Down in the vales of Alabamma. 

Down, 'way down in her home in Alabamma, 

Down in her home, the maiden sighs, 
While the bird that Robert sent, as his parting compliment, 

From its cage in her window pertly cries, 
" Yes, 
But don't you dare to tell Rob ; don't you, don't you tell him." 

And oh ! how that bird she does despise ; 

But she'll never kiss again until she dies, 

Down where she sits and sighs, 
Down in her home in Alabamma. — S. Miller Hageman. 



CHAPTER XI. 



SOME OF THE CHURCHES. 

" Howbeit, God dwelleth not in temples made with hands." 

" Not in buildings made with hands 

Hath Jehovah placed His name ; 
In hearts contrite His temple stands, 

Where through the Spirit's holy flame, 
True worshipers adore their Lord, 
Instructed by His living Word. 
So great a price our Lord hath placed 
Upon a heart with meekness graced, 
That such a heart we boldly dare 
Denominate a ' house of prayer.'" 

'\T7E must not leave the capital without a 
glance at some of its churches. St. 
John's, the oldest, and for many years the only 
church edifice in Richmond, is rich in historic 
associations. The erection of this venerable 
edifice was commenced in 1 739, on what was 
then known as Indian Hill, the name being 
afterwards changed to Church Hill. It was 
completed in 1 740. The bricks of which it was 
built were burnt on the ground. 

Before and during the Revolutionary War, it 
was the sanctuary of patriotism as well as of 



religion. Hallowed memories cluster about its 
crumbling walls. It was here that Patrick 
Henry uttered his immortal words: "Give me 
liberty or give me death." Some of the old 
tombstones in the grave-yard are very curious ; 
and many of the inscriptions almost impossible 
to decipher from their great age. 

The second church erected in Richmond was 
the Monumental, which stands on the site of 
the Richmond Theater, destroyed by fire in 
1811, when seventy people perished in the 
flames. The governor and many of the most 
highly esteemed citizens, were among the 




Monumental Church. 



number. The present structure is octagonal. 
In the front portico is a monument to the 



8 4 

victims of that terrible disaster, and beneath it 
their ashes repose. 

St. Paul's, with its sharp, slender, beautiful 
spire, is one of the principal Episcopal churches. 
Jefferson Davis attended here, and was at wor- 
ship on Sunday, April 2, 1865, when, in the 
midst of the sermon, by the rector, the Rev. Dr. 
Minnegrode, a messenger entered, touched 
Jeff Davis on the shoulder, and informed 
him of the surrender of Lee. We are told he 
waited not for the benediction, but speedily 
left. 

The old Negro meeting-house, called the 
First African Baptist Church, is the most 
attractive to the stranger. It is of brick, and 
has a membership of two thousand colored 
people. It was built by the whites, but given 
to the negroes on the completion of a new 
and handsome edifice. Throngs crowd the build- 
ing, and the doors are often blockaded. The 
service is remarkable for the wild pathos of 
singing and discourse. 

St. James' is also a large and costly church. 
The rector, the Rev. Dr. Peterkin, is greatly be- 
loved and honored by citizens of all denomina- 
tions. In disposition, he is so kind, gentle and 



85 

benien, so forgetful of self, so disinterested and 
loving in character, that his praise seems in the 
mouth of all. 

The love of chickens by the African race, 
and their light-fingered proclivities, are pro- 
verbial. One night the rector's hen-coop was 
rifled, and every chicken taken. When informed 
of the theft perpetrated, Dr. Peterkin, after a 
moment's silence, simply replied : " Well, I hope 
some poor persons have them who need them 
more than I do." 

At a church social, not long since, a young 
lady approached the rector, and said : 

" I tremble for you, Doctor ; I wouldn't be 
in your place for a great deal." 

" Why ; what have I done that is so terrible ?" 
was the astonished answer. 

"Just this, sir, the Bible says, 'Woe unto 
him of whom all men speak well.' ' 

The amusement and applause that followed, 
showed the joke was appreciated by all present, 
and the estimate in which the beloved rector 
was held. A speaking life-sized portrait of Dr. 
Peterkin hangs in the gallery of Campbell & 
Co., and the face interprets the man. 



CHAPTER XII. 



PLANTATION LIFE. 

This fond attachment to the well-known place 
Whence first we started into life's long race, 
Maintains its hold with such unfailing sway, 
We feel it e'en in age, and at our latest day. — Cowper. 

T T AVING renewed our acquaintance with 
Col. Aylett, in Richmond, we received 
from him a cordial invitation to visit his plan- 
tation, situated between the Mattapony and 
Pamunkey rivers, in King William's County. 

From Richmond we went by rail to Lester 
Manor, and from thence, by private conveyance, 
for eighteen miles through the country, past 
woods and glades, fertile fields, and land run 
to waste ; and along the line of Sheridan's 
march, in his detour around Richmond. The 
noble trees on either hand, attest that the forests 
were not all felled by this marching army. In 
answer to queries, our driver acknowledged that 
the forests here had been spared ; but the advanc- 
ing force had burned all the fences for miles 
around, finding them abundant for their needs. 



37 

The strong- attachment of the ex-slaves of 
the planters of Virginia, to their masters, is 
seen even to the present day. Our driver, with 
his nearly white face, and hair just touched 
with gray, told in his inimitable dialect, how 
one memorable day, he had been taken prisoner 
by some straggling troops, and his mule, laden 
with grain from the mill, confiscated. He was 
told that he must march on with the troops ; 
and, though he protested and struggled against 
it, was forced along. " But," said he, " I seed 
day didn't hab any shoulder-straps, and know'd 
day was nottin' but private soldiers. So I went 
'long wid dem, radder dan be shot, till I seed 
an officer. Den I 'pealed to him, and he say : 
' Let dat nio-orer q-o ! ' " 

The affection of this negro for his old master, 
and the family to which he belonged, had 
caused him to feel that he had suffered per- 
sonally at the hands of the Northern army, and 
forever blinded his eyes to all good accruing 
from the results of the war. Recalling the 
scenes of those terrible days, he related how 
mules, cattle, pigs, sheep and chickens, were 
driven along by the soldiers in their march, even 
pressing the terrified slaves into the service, 



often compelling them, most unwillingly, to drive 
their master's cattle. 

These old plantations occupy large tracts of 
land, consequently one can drive far before 
coming to any habitation. But the roads are 
good, and the scenery diversified and beautiful. 

On reaching Col. Aylett's ancestral acres, we 
passed fields of corn and wheat, woods and 
grassy meadows, before reaching the mansion, 
which stands on high ground, surrounded by 
venerable shade trees, and commanding a mag- 
nificent view of the adjacent country many 
miles in extent. 

As we approached the house, the cattle in 
the foreground peacefully grazing, and the 
sheep, washed clean by recent rains, roaming 
apparently at their own free will, made up a 
scene of rural beauty not often to be met with. 

We were received with true Southern hospi- 
tality by the Colonel, his wife and family, and 
everything that thought could suggest was done 
to make our visit to this plantation home de- 
lightful. 

" But the kind hosts their entertainment grace 
With hearty welcome and an open face ; 
In all they did, you might discern with ease 
A willing mind, and a desire to please." 



8 9 

The house is built in the old architectural 
style peculiarly Virginian ; with the huge chim- 
neys running up on the outside, the wide wel- 
coming veranda, and the air of home pervading 
all. 

Within, this old family mansion is what one 
might imagine from a study of the exterior. 
The large doors standing invitingly open, we 
enter the wide hall fairly blossoming with flow- 
ers. The rooms are large and luxuriously fur- 
nished. Old paintings and family portraits, 
look down from the walls, with evident ap- 
proval upon the events of to-day. 

Little indescribable touches here and there, 
fancy articles wrought by delicate fingers, 
objects of taste and beauty, souvenirs of other 
days, rare and wonderful, make up this home. 

Standing near the family mansion is the old 
homestead, built by Col. Aylett's grandfather 
over a hundred years ago. Here the Colonel 
has his law office and library, the largest and 
finest outside of Richmond. 

On the other side of the wide hall, is the apart- 
ment used as a school-room for the children, 
before they were old enough to pursue the higher 
branches of education in the city. In the rooms 



9° 

above .are pieces of ancient furniture, pictures, 
bureaus, cabinets and desks of curious workman- 
ship, suggesting thoughts of undiscovered 
hiding-places, secret drawers and springs which 
might start back at a touch, and reveal treasures 
untold, or hidden mysteries. 

The law office is hung with guns and sabres, 
spears, bows and arrows, tomahawks, bayonets, 
canteens, heir-looms and heraldic designs An 
ancient sword, that had seen service in Revolu- 
tionary days, we specially remember, as wonder- 
ing while we gazed, if this might not be the 
identical "Sword of Bunker Hill," about which 
we sing. 

We walked about the grounds, and through 
the flower garden, of which we had heard so 
much, but not before seen, picking roses, and 
choice floral beauties, and breathing the sweet 
fragrance of the flowers. We climbed up into 
the branches of a huge oak, left standing not far 
from the house, or rather mounted the some- 
what precipitous steps leading to a platform built 
within its spreading arms. Nature seemed 
specially to have designed this old tree to hold 
securely the three seats fashioned there. 

The daughters, accustomed from babyhood to 



9i 

climb to this high perch, were agile as squirrels, 
and seemed as much at home in mid-air as upon 
terra Jirma, while we, with uncertain hold, 
scarcely dared look around upon the scene of 
beauty stretching away before us. 

The kitchen, as in all Southern homesteads, is 
detached from the house, and together with 
barns, negro-cabins, and numerous other build- 
ings, forms quite a little settlement. 

Among other attractive features, of the many 
claiming notice, was the extensive hennery fitted 
up with all appurtenances for the comfort and 
enjoyment of the occupants. Extending our 
walk, in the dim twilight hour, in that direction, 
the trim, well-kept appearance of the structure 
arrested the attention of one of our party, and he, 
inquiringly, remarked : " Those are the cabins of 
your negroes, I presume ? " 

The evident amusement of the Colonel at this 
mistake, together with the covert compliment to 
his handsome hennery, was great. But he laugh- 
ingly disclaimed any design of putting his 
servants into such contracted quarters. What 
would be spacious for a hen, might not be quite 
so commodious for a negro. 

Indoors, the light fire crackling on the old 



9 2 

brass andirons, in the broad, open fireplace, cast 
aglow over the group assembled in the room, and 
by its cheerful light and warmth, dispersed the 
slight chill of the evening air, and conduced to 
the genial influence around, and to the enjoyment 
of the sweet tones of the piano, as they swell and 
vibrate under the touch of one whose soul 
speaks through the melody of sound. 

Col. Aylett is the great-grandson of Patrick 
Henry, so he comes legitimately by his power of 
eloquence. As we looked upon the countenance 
of that great Orator, as depicted in the portrait 
over the piano, we felt that we, too, had a claim 
to his memory, in that he belongs to our whole 
country — the claim of every true American to 
revere and honor genius, wisdom and patriotism. 

Old household names are strictly preserved in 
this family, and the youngest son now bears the 
name of Patrick Henry Aylett. The old watch, 
before mentioned, was one belonging to that 
great statesman, hence the value set upon it. 

Among other relics of past days, is the original 
"standard bushel measure, sent over to the colonies 
by King William, as a gauge for all like. measures 
in this country. It is of copper, and has the 
stamp of the King upon the outside. The eyes 



93 

of relic hunters have more than once been turned 
enviously towards it ; and twice it has been 
recovered from anions stolen snoods. 

Many thrilling incidents of war times were 
related by the Colonel and his wife. They had 
been married but a year when the war broke out, 
and in the early days, Mrs. Aylett accompanied 
her husband into the held. But afterwards she 
remained on the plantation, to protect, by her 
presence, the old homestead. The wisdom of 
this course was afterwards seen in the preserva- 
tion intact of all personal property, when those 
homes that had been deserted by the families 
were, in many cases, despoiled by the passing- 
army. 

At one time, Col. Aylett was surprised in his 
house by a body of cavalry, and narrowly escaped 
capture. He believed the enemy to be miles 
away, when, suddenly, the frightened negroes 
rushed into his presence, exclaiming that the yard 
was full of soldiers ! And sure enough, a scout- 
ing party, learning that he was at home, had been 
dispatched to capture him. 

Col. Aylett, of naturally dark complexion, was 
bronzed by exposure, so that he was scarcely a 
shade lighter than many of the slaves around. 



94 

Pulling off his military boots, which his wife 
hastily concealed up the wide chimney, donning 
a ragged garb, that would hardly hold together, 
and drawing an old slouched hat over his eyes, he 
sauntered out into the yard over towards the 
fence, and picking up a rake leaning against it, 
shouldered it, climbed lazily over, and, as if 
going to work, disappeared in the woods. Every 
room was explored, and all possible hiding places, 
for the Confederate officer ; but the boots, which 
if found, would have betrayed him, were not dis- 
covered, and after a long and ineffectual search, 
the scouting party decamped. 

The family plate, jewelry and other valuables, 
were sent for safe keeping to Richmond, during 
the war. But articles of lesser value, together 
with gold and silver coins, indispensable in the 
running expenses of a large household, found a 
"safe deposit " beneath the nest of a motherly 
hen. And though diligent search was made for 
hid treasures, whenever the army halted in that 
vicinity, and almost every foot of ground near the 
house, poked by bayonets and ram-rods, or up- 
turned with spades, this spot was not disturbed. 

A projecting shelf high up and within the huge 
chimney, formed an effectual place of conceal- 



95 

ment, from the hands of those ruthless invaders, 
for all articles of food, such as choice hams, 
mutton, sugar, flour, meal, etc. And though it 
seemed that nothing could escape the observation 
of those sharp-sighted soldiers, who believed all 
to be the fair spoil of war, yet this secret shelf 
with its hidden stores, was never discovered. 

Mrs. Aylett related how, at one time, she had 
had a personal encounter with a straggling 
private. Her indignation was often roused by 
the ruthless manner in which all provisions and 
live-stock to be found about the house or 
premises, were thanklessly gobbled up. One day 
she espied a military hero making off with a 
basket of extra fine peanuts, which she had 
hidden away in an upper room, as a treat for the 
children. This sight was too much. Familiarity 
with danger had made her fearless, and she 
determined not to let them q-o without at least a 
protest. But the valiant soldier hung on to his 
treasure with pertinacity, and would not give it 
up. At last a compromise was effected ; and the 
lady kept the basket, while the trooper made off 
with the peanuts. The combat thus resulting in 
what the Colonel pronounced to be a drawn 
battle. 



9 6 

A trusted and devoted slave accompanied Col. 
Aylett, as body-servant, through the whole cam- 
paign. With anxious, sorrowful countenance he 
would search the battle fields, after the many 
terrific conflicts, for his missing master, and when 
found/his joy was unbounded. He would carry 
news of the Colonel's welfare to his anxious family 
and keep them posted as to his movements, for 
the negroes could penetrate the Union lines, and 
were allowed to pass where no white man would 
dare venture. 

In answer to the question, Would negroes steal 
from their masters ? the reply was, yes, whenever 
they could get the chance ; it was a racial trait. 
But those who know their superstitious nature, 
can easily protect themselves. A skull, or any 
human bone, put into a barn, enclosure, or apart- 
ment, is a sure guarantee against all pilfering. 

A laughable cure, wrought in the case of a val- 
uable slave in years gone by, is an instance of the 
hold superstition has upon these susceptible 
natures. Word was brought to Col. Aylett, after 
an absence from home of several weeks, that a 
trusted negro was suffering from some unknown 
disease, which baffled the skill of the doctor. 
The negro believed himself to be under some 



97 

mysterious spell, or as he himself said, he had 
been " tricked," and could feel lizards running all 
up and down inside of him. He was reduced al- 
most to a skeleton ; and the physician in attend- 
ance declared that he must die, unless his imagin- 
ation could be worked upon by some counter spell. 

Col. Aylett said he would cure him. He sent 
word to the poor fellow that he possessed a 
" tricking machine," and could cure him if he 
would follow implicitly his directions. In the 
meantime he would study the heavens, and 
when the siofns were riodit, would send for the 
slave and free him from the spell that held him. 
In reality he was waiting till he could catch a few 
lizards. 

Soon he sent for the afflicted negro ; had him 
stripped, blind-folded, and wrapped in a blanket. 
Then bringing into the room a galvanic battery 
(the supposed "tricking machine"), he admin- 
istered a severe shock to the trembling sufferer 
before him, at the same time dexterously slipping 
the clammy lizards beneath the blanket. The 
yell of terror that followed, showed that life was 
not yet quite extinct. Springing to his feet, and 
tearing the turban from his bandaged eyes, and 
seeing the lizards lying at his feet dead, he gave 



9 8 

a cry of joy and gratitude, and the cure was 
wrought. 

An interesting account was given of the 
Indians in the neighborhood, remnants of two 
tribes, the Pamunkey and Mattapony, having a 
camping ground near Whitehouse Landing. 
The Pamunkey was at one time a powerful and 
warlike tribe. Their Chief, Opechancanough, was 
second only to Powhatan, in the days of hostilities 
between the early settlers and the aborigines. 
This conversation led to the meaning of some of 
the now familiar Indian names of places and sta- 
tions, such as Cherry Coke, meaning sparkling 
water ; Cohoke, muddy water ; Roman Coke r 
crooked water, etc. 

At a late hour, hearing music from the neoro 
quarters, we were invited out to listen to the 
melodies wafted to us on the night air. Accom- 
panied by some rude instrument, the music and 
jollity was kept up till the small hours of the 
morning. 

When we parted for the night, it was to be 
ushered into a large and tasteful apartment, where 
a crackling fire of pine logs resting on the carved 
brass andirons, in the huge open fireplace, sent a 
glow over this room also, speaking as no tongue 



99 

could do, of the thoughtful kindness of these 
friends. 

More might be written of our sojourn beneath 
this hospitable roof, would time and space permit, 
but we must hasten on. Having enjoyed this 
charming glimpse of plantation life as it is, with 
glad memories of our delightful visit, never to 
be effaced, we looked farewell upon this South- 
ern home. After a long and pleasant drive 
through field and forest to the depot, we were 
soon borne by train back to Richmond. 




CHAPTER XIII. 



ANOTHER DAY IN THE CAPITAL. 

" The land was beautiful : 
Fair rose the spires, and gay the buildings were." 

But yesterday we heard the deafening roar 
Of cannon, thundering on our peaceful shore. 
We've seen the lurid storm-cloud settling down, 
The " floating pillar " o'er the burning town, 
The jet of smoke, the flash, the bursting shell, 
And fields, blood-stained, where many brothers fell. 
Some dear ones faltered by the weary way, 
Or in drear prisons languished many a day ; 
Where'er their graves by kindly hands were made, 
In sunny vales or in the cypress shade, 
Or where, unknown, they're folded to earth's breast, 
'Tis consecrated ground in which they rest. 

— Clare Hoyt Burleigh. 

A /J" UCH of interest yet remained to be seen on 
this our last day in the Southern metropo- 
lis. Making Capitol Square our point of center, 
we passed once more beneath the dome of the 
rotunda, up the square stairway, to the Court 
of Appeals, the scene of that fearful accident 
of April, 1870, by which over fifty people lost 
their lives, and many more were seriously in- 



IOI 

jured. The floor of this room, which is situ- 
ated directly over the Hall of the House of 
Delegates, suddenly gave way, and a large audi- 
ence, assembled there, were precipitated into the 
room beneath. 

The State Library here contains 40,000 vol- 
umes, and many interesting documents. A 
survey and letter written by Washington at 1 7 
years of age, is framed and hangs in a promi- 
nent position on the walls ; while beneath it is 
an autograph letter, written twelve days before 
his death. Not far off is a portrait of Poca- 
hontas, with tall hat and raven locks, bearing 
date:"A.D. 1616," from original in England. 

In the gallery hang portraits of all the Gov- 
ernors of Virginia, together with those of her 
Generals and other prominent men. Among 
the historical paintings, we recall a group of 
three, representing Black Hawk, his wife, and a 
brave of the same tribe. 

Here is a curious old chair, in which the 
Speaker of the House of Burgesses once sat. 
On a tablet over it, are these words : " Presented 
by Queen Anne to the Colonies — Speaker's Chair 
— House of Burgesses — Williamsburg, 1700." 

From the dome can be clearly discerned that 



102 

section of the city swept by the conflagration, 
kindled by the retreating army, on the evacu- 
ation of Richmond, when over 1,000 buildings 
were destroyed, involving an estimated loss of 
$8,000,000. These were mainly in the business 
quarter, and have very generally been rebuilt 
by solid, handsome structures. 

A short drive, of about two miles, takes us 
to the National Military Cemetery, where 6,529 
Union Soldiers lie buried. Of these, 838 graves 
only are known, and marked by a simple head- 
stone. The remainder of this sleeping army 
have but a square block of marble, bearing the 
number of the grave. 

" On Fame's eternal camping ground 
Their silent tents are spread ; 
While Glory guards, with solemn round, 
The bivouac of the dead." 

Returning to the city, the Central School 
House was pointed out as being once the " White 
House of the Confederacy," or the residence of 
Jeff. Davis during the war. 

Not far from here is the Medical College, a 
beautiful and imposing structure, in the Egyp- 
tian style of architecture, one of the finest in 
the State. This college was founded in 1838, 
with a Faculty composed of the most eminent 



103 

and skillful practitioners and surgeons in the 
commonwealth. 

The need of a Medical School at the South, 
adequate to her wants, and comparing favorably 
in all appliances for instruction, with the older 
medical institutions in the land, had long been 
felt, and the subject agitated among the medical 
fraternity. Richmond was selected as the most 
eligible location, it being in the center of the 
State, and easily accessible to the whole South- 
ern country ; having a salubrious climate, high 
social position, and general educational advan- 
tages above other cities. 

But at the start, this enterprise met with a 
serious obstacle, in the intense prejudice, existing 
in Virginia, against conferring chartered rights 
and privileges. Corporations of any kind were 
rarely allowed ; and even the Theological Sem- 
inary at Alexandria, and the Union Theological 
Seminary at Hampden-Sidney, were unable to 
obtain charters. Under these circumstances, 
the privilege was sought by the Medical Col- 
lege and secured from the Trustees of Hamp- 
den-Sidney University, to act under its charter, 
on condition that $500 be paid annually for 
the privilege. 



io5 

The first Commencement was held on the 
4th of April, 1839, with a class of forty-six 
students. From this date the College made 
steady progress up to the time of the War, 
having an average class of fifty or sixty. The 
efforts of the Faculty being directed, then as 
now, more earnestly towards advancing thorough- 
ness of instruction, than to securing a large at- 
tendance. 

The Union Hotel, suitably fitted up, was first 
used for College purposes. But the advantage 
of having a building especially constructed for 
medical instruction, and located more suitably, 
was evident. To facilitate that end, the City 
of Richmond made an appropriation of $6,000 
to purchase the lot selected for the present 
College building ; this is, geographically, nearly 
in the center of the city. On this lot the 
Faculty erected, in 1846, the edifice now standing. 

A misunderstanding occurred in 1854, be- 
tween the Trustees of Hampden-Sidney College 
and the Faculty of the Medical College ; and 
the latter made application to the Legislature 
for an independent charter, which was readily 
granted, and the present system of organization 
established. 



io6 

Upon the election of Mr. Lincoln to the 
Presidency of the United States, and the fore- 
shadowing of the disruption of the Union, 
the medical students from the Southern States, 
who were then in Northern universities, fired 
with a common sympathy, seceded from those 
institutions, and nearly all of them came in a 
body to join the classes of the Medical College 
of Richmond. 

This event awakened an intense interest 
among the people of the City and State. The 
City Council made an appropriation of $5,000 
to receive and entertain these returning stu- 
dents. At this Reception it is estimated that 
2,500 persons were seated at the tables, in- 
cluding the Governor, Judges of the Court, 
Members of the Legislature, and some of the 
most distinguished citizens of the State. 

On the next day, the Legislature made an 
appropriation of $30,000, to erect upon the Col- 
lege grounds a building suitable for hospital 
purposes. During the War, this College was 
the only one in the Southern States, which con- 
tinued its course of instruction, maintaining an 
uninterrupted session. Its graduates furnished 
nearly all the recruits to the medical staff of 
the Confederate Army. 



107 

But the close of the War witnessed a sad 
change in the general condition of the country. 
The whole Southern people were impoverished. 
Hardly one in a thousand of those formerly in 
affluence, could now afford to give their children 
a collegiate education. The struggle was now 
for existence. As a result, very many of the 
institutions of learning were discontinued, and 
in all there was a rapid decline in the classes. 
But for the past four years, there has been 
a steady increase in the attendance at the Medi- 
cal College, and in all respects it is now doing 
well, the classes averaging, for the past two 
years, eighty-two. With the increase in the 
number of students, the length of sessions has 
been extended, the resources for lecture-room 
illustration augmented, and all the advantages 
for medical instruction proportionately increased. 

From here we wended our way to the studio 
of Virginia's great sculptor, Edward Yirginius 
Valentine, best known to the American public 
by his recent colossal statue of Gen. Lee. In 
early boyhood, young Valentine gave unmis- 
takable evidence of the genius which has dis- 
tinguished his maturer years. 

Born in the city of Richmond under the old 



io8 

regime, when wealth, refinement, culture and 
abundant leisure were the inheritance of the 
favored few, he received every encouragement in 
the pursuit of his chosen art, and the advan- 
tage of cultivated friendships and artistic counsels 
and criticisms. He commenced his art studies 
under Oswald Heinrich, and later, became a 
pupil of Hubard. 

In 1859, panting for a sight of the art treas- 
ures of the Old World, he went abroad for 
study. He first became a pupil of Couture, in 
Paris. After remaining nearly a year under the 
instruction of that celebrated artist, young Val- 
entine set out for Italy, lingering long amid the 
galleries there, studying the antiques of the 
Vatican, and the multitudinous works of the 
old and modern masters. 

In Florence he took a course of instruction 
with Bonauti. In 1861 he went to Berlin to 
seek admission into the studio of Kiss, having 
been greatly impressed by a sight of that 
artist's great work in bronze, The Amazon 
Attacked by a Tiger. At first he was refused, the 
old sculptor declaring that he took no pupils. 
But the young artist's persistence, gentleness, 
and evident talent, so won upon the childless 



109 

old man, that he not only took him into his 
studio ; but when, soon after, the Rebellion broke 
out in America, and he was cut off from friends 
and all pecuniary supplies, Kiss took him into 
his own home, and lavished upon him all the 
care and affection of a father. Young Valentine 
remained with him till his death, ministering to 
him in sickness, and cheering his last hours. 
He alone could comfort the bereaved widow, 
and she entreated him to remain, and be a son 
to her. 

But the old longing to return to America 
became irresistible ; and now that the close of 
the war had rendered it possible, finding per- 
suasions to remain of no avail, Madame Kiss pre- 
sented the beloved pupil with many valuable 
works of art, together with all the modeling tools 
of his late master. And to-day Mr. Valentine 
has in his studio many relics of Kiss, among 
them the replica of the head of the Amazon. 

Though the universal depression was terrible 
in the South, and the outlook seemed almost 
hopeless when Mr. Valentine first set foot in 
Virginia, after these many years of absence, his 
strong love for his native soil led him to resist 
all offers, however tempting and advantageous, 



I IO 

which came to him from other parts of our 
land, and he opened his studio in Richmond, 
where he has ever since remained. But his 
fame has become national. 

More than by any other work, this great 
sculptor is best known by his Recumbent Figure 
of Gen. R. E. Lee, which now graces the Lee 
Mausoleum at Washington and Lee Univer- 
sity, Lexington, Va. 

The statue has been thus described by Mr. 
S. Teakle Wallis, in an address delivered in Bal- 
timore : " The hero is lying in his uniform, as 
if in sleep, upon his narrow soldier's bed. One 
hand is lying by his side, where it has fallen, 
and rests upon his sword. The portraiture is 
perfect, no less as to form than feature. The 
whole expression is that of tranquil and abso- 
lute repose — the repose of physical power, un- 
shaken though dormant ; of manly grace, most 
graceful when at rest ; of noble faculties, alive 
and sovereign though still." 

Among - his ideal heads, The Samaritan 
Woman and The Penitent Thief are the best 
known. The Nations Ward is a matchless por- 
trayal of the happy, heedless negro boy ; while 
his Knowledge is Power represents a little darkie 



1 1 1 

asleep, with a well-thumbed book dropping from 
his listless hand. 

Mr. Valentine showed us some sketches of 
his, designed to illustrate a publication on Art, 
about to be issued ; and, also, a charming draw- 
ing of his ivy-grown studio. Here is the bust* 
in clay, of Uncle Henry, an aged negro, whose 
wrinkled face beams kindliness on all. He was 
an old family servant and coachman, belonging 
to Mr. Valentine's grandmother, and in 1824: 
drove the coach on the occasion of a grand 
ball she attended, given in honor of Gen. 
Lafayette. This old slave is still living, aged 
98 years, and his attachment to the family of 
his old master amounts to veneration. 

But the masterpiece, that at once fixes the 
attention of the visitor, is an ideal group — 
heroic size — representing Andromache and Asty- 
anax. The sculptor has seized the moment 
just after Hector has left his wife and infant 
child, to meet glory and death on the battlefield. 
Andromache is seated in a chair, with bowed 
head and downcast eyes ; the distaff has fallen 
from her hand, and her face tells the story of her 
grief and apprehension. In touching contrast to 
this figure, is the innocent, laucrhinq- face of the 



I 12 



chubby boy, climbing into his mother's lap. 
This is a noble conception, grandly executed. 

An art critic thus writes of it : " There is a 
Greek simplicity and dignity about the work, that 
eminently befits the subject. But there is that in 
the expression of the face of Andromache which, 
while it defies analysis, claims and holds the 
attention at once. There is a pensive, far-away 
look in the eyes, indicative of the love of 
Andromache for her husband, and of the anxiety 
and sorrow which, prophetically, is overshadow- 
ing her soul. The feeling thus expressed, is 
beyond any mere technical excellence. It is soul 
and heart that speak through these eyes and in 
this face. One is not surprised to learn that the 
sculptor did this part of his work, while almost 
daily watching the gentle fading away from life 
of a dearly beloved wife, who was his inspiration 
in this as in other work. Something of his own 
sorrow and resignation, something of the grace- 
ful, womanly, affectionate character of the 
departed one, has gone into this face and figure. 
The work thus becomes more than a mere 
artistic production, however excellent it may be 
in this respect, and thus, we believe, it will appeal 
to the world." 



"3 

In person, Mr. Valentine is tall and slender, 
with handsome, rather prominent features, and a 
smile that lights up his whole countenance. His 
forehead' is broad and well modeled, bearing 
lines of thought and earnest study. His manners 
are orentle, his voice low, his orreetincr cordial and 
kind. 

But while we linger in this studio, so rich in 
art-creations, the gathering shades of evening 
remind us that our last day in Richmond has 
drawn to a close, and we must say adieu alike to 
artist and city. 

" Farewell ! a word that must be and hath been — 
A sound which makes us linger ; — yet, farewell ! " 






CHAPTER XIV. 



THE CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO 
RAILWAY. 

" Railways — the mighty veins and arteries, 
And telegraphic wires, the nerves of nations, 
And fiery engines rushing o'er the land 
Swifter than flight, or ploughing through the seas 
'Gainst wind, and tide, and elemental strife ; 
Promethean spirits conquering time and space, 
And quickening all the pulses of their race." 

AT daybreak next morning, we were speeding 
on our way by rail towards Hampton. 
The fortunes of war have but turned another leaf 
in the history of a land already rich in traditions 
of the past ; and the soil of Virginia, baptized with 
the blood of patriots, will ever be sacred to our 
united country. All around is historic. The 
pine forests, the growth of twenty years, mark 
where the torch was used, and 

" Where the conflict the wildest was roaring." 

The soft musical ring of the Indian names of 
many of the stations, catches the ear : Elko, 



n5 

Lanexa (meaning running-water), Toanno, Kel- 
torn, etc. The first station out from Richmond 
is Fort Lee, where lies the field of Fair Oaks. 
Just before reaching Ewells Farm, we cross the 
Chickahominy river, which here swells out wide 
like a lake. Upon an island at this point, 
formerly bearing the Indian name of Werowoco- 
moco, Capt. John Smith was rescued from death 
by Pocahontas. 

Williamsburg, one of the oldest towns in the 
United States, is the most interesting on the 
road. Here the early pioneers repaired, upon the 
abandonment of the earlier settlement of James- 
town, in 1632. In the year 1698, after the 
burning of the State House in Jamestown, the 
seat of government was removed here, as being, 
according to an old writing, " healthier, more 
convenient, and freer from moschetoes." Here 
is the William and Mary College, chartered in 
1692. The Chancery Office can still be seen, 
remodeled indeed, but containing the English 
bricks and timber of which it was first con- 
structed. The identical Powder Magazine of 
revolutionary days, is yet standing, now used as 
a stable, and called by the boys of the neighbor- 
hood, "Old Powder Horn." The old ivy- 



n6 

mantled church, built in 1680, with its mural 
tablets, and churchyard filled with antique and 
crumbling tombstones, bearing quaint inscrip- 
tions, tempt the stranger long to loiter here. 
The train passes within six miles of Yorktown, 
and during the Centennial, a track, since torn up, 
was laid to that place of discomfiture to Lord 
Cornwallis. Log-cabins and little shanties, above 
which curl white feathers of smoke, dot the land- 
scape. Crops of potatoes, corn, wheat and 
tobacco, look flourishing. The Virginia-creeper, 
wild honeysuckle, trumpet-vine, and many lovely 
wild flowers greet the eye. One, a brilliant 
golden blossom, was said to have been first 
brought over from Scotland by a nobleman. It 
now grows rank, and farmers would be glad to 
get rid of it. But the train speeds on, and soon 
we are borne to our point of destination on this 
road — Hampton. 



§X&7 




V.G-® 




PORTSMOUTH S \ V ^T'^'X'V' * 
oosport ,\ \ » ^\ 

U. S. Na., Va.d f { 



CHAPTER XV. 



HAMPTON. 

" What is noble? To inherit 

Wealth, estate and proud degree ? 
There must be some other merit 

Higher yet than these for me. 
W T hat is noble ? 'Tis the finer 

Portion of our mind and heart, 
Linked to something still diviner 

Than mere language can impart ; 
Ever prompting, ever seeking 

Some improvement yet to plan, 
To uplift our fellow being, 

And like man, to feel for man ! 
What is noble? That which places 

Truth in its enfranchised will ; 
Leaving steps, like angel-traces, 

That mankind may follow still. 
E'en though Scorn's malignant glances 

Prove him poorest of his clan, 
He's the Noble — who advances 

Freedom and the cause of man ! " 

HIS is classic ground. Through the far- 
famed " Hampton Roads," the first settlers 
of the Colonies passed to these new and un- 
known shores ; and here the first company of 
slaves were landed on our coasts. At Hampton 



T 



1 1 9 

the earliest Freedmen's School at the South was 
opened. Thus, it is decreed that on the very 
soil where the degradation of the negro was 
instituted, the work of regeneration began. The 
American Missionary Association, long in active 
sympathy with the anti-slavery cause, sent out 
missionaries, and established societies for the 
relief of the colored people in the South, during 
the war, ministering to the physical necessities of 
the distressed first, and afterwards seeking 1 to 
teach and elevate them. After the war closed, 
this association pushed forward the noble work 
begun among the freedmen, with vig-or, till in 

1867, it purchased the buildings occupied by the 
school at Hampton, together with 191 acres of 
land near the mouth of the creek. Securing 
subsequently the hospital barracks, these build- 
ings were changed and fitted up for school and 
farm purposes. 

At the instance of Gen. S. C. Armstrong, 
then connected with the Freedmen's Bureau, a 
Normal School was opened at Hampton in 

1868. Gen. Armstrong, who had been colonel 
of a regiment of United States colored troops 
during the war. and afterwards brevetted brig- 
adier-general, was placed at its head as principal. 



121 

In 1870, a fine academic building was erected, 
and in June of this year, the school was regularly 
incorporated under a board of trustees, as Hamp- 
ton Normal and Agricultural Institute, and the 
property turned over to the trustees. 

In 1872, by an act of the Virginia Legislature, 
one-third of the State Agricultural College Fund, 
amounting to $95,000, was assigned to the 
institute. A year from this time, the roll of 
membership increased to such an extent, and the 
buildings were so crowded, that it became neces- 
sary to use the recitation rooms as dormitories 
for the boys, and a score or more were compelled 
to camp out in tents during the winter. 

A new building was a necessity, and so the 
corner-stone of Virginia Hall was laid. A lar^e 
and handsome brick structure was commenced, 
having room for one hundred and twenty pupils, 
together with chapel and dining-halls, the whole 
to cost $75,000. Though still incomplete, the 
edifice was dedicated the following year at Com- 
mencement. But $50,000 were yet required to 
finish the work, and the trustees refused to pro- 
ceed with the building till this amount was 
raised. The Hampton Singers, by the proceeds 
of three hundred and fifty concerts, contributed 



1 2 



$10,000 of this sum, and stimulated the giving of 
nearly $50,000 additional, by indirect results. 
With other amounts collected, the building- was 
finished free from debt, in 1875. It has a front- 
age of 190 feet, and is 40 feet in depth, having 
a wing 100 feet long in the rear. The chapel 
will seat 400 people, and the large commodious 
dining-hall, 475. 

There are at present in the school 608 
students. A little less than one-half of this 
number are girls. There are 137 Indian students, 
averaging seventeen years of age. The institute 
was first organized for the purpose of benefiting 
and elevating the African race. But in 1878, 
Gen Armstrong introduced a new feature into 
the school, by the formation of a class of Indians. 
This experiment of educating the negroes and 
Indians together has proved a complete success, 
and the number of Indian students has increased, 
in seven years, from fifteen to one hundred and 
thirty-seven. These are representatives from 
thirteen different tribes, chiefly Sioux, who have 
come here from all parts of the country. 

The names of some are very curious, as for 
instance : Charles Spotted Eyes, Eugene Iron 
Necklace, Erank Black Hawk, Henry Little 



124 



Eagle, Thomas Wild Cat, Julia Pretty Hair, 
Louisa Long Girl, Marguerite Hotoninyankewin, 
and Cora Bell Little Black Foot. One young 
giant, who bore the pleasing cognomen of Paul 




Indian Students, Hampton. 

Prairie Chicken, was pronounced by the boys 
too big for a chicken, and thereupon dubbed 
" Gobbler." 



125 

Many of the Indian students become much 
ashamed of their significant names as translated 
into English, and seek to rob them of the 
ridiculous by a change which, in many cases, is 




Indian Students, Hampton. 

very ingeniously accomplished. As for instance, 
" Fire Cloud " now writes his name Daniel 
Cloud, while " Wild Cat" becomes simply 



126 

Thomas Wild. That this interpretation is so 
invariably resorted to by the teachers, is to be 
regretted ; but the Indian names are often quite 
unpronounceable, and if attempted in the school, 
precious time might be consumed, the class 
demoralized or turned into a musical assembly. 

The difference in the races is distinctly marked, 
both in physiognomy and bearing. The slender, 
erect, lithe figure of the Indian, the strong 
features, and often fierce expression of these 
" mild savages " (as their teachers often term 
them), their raven tresses without a kink, strike 
the eye of the visitor. No pride is taken in wavy 
locks; no frizzing is indulged in by these Indian 
maidens. Severe simplicity in the arrangement 
of the hair is the inflexible rule, broken only by 
the universal " bang." But jewelry, beads, and 
gay colors delight their eyes, as the gorgeous 
ribbon, bright bouquet, scarfs and shawls, testify. 

All sizes and ages are here present, from the 
little papoose to the six-foot man. A family of 
Sioux called Fire Cloud, composed of the father, 
mother, baby-in-arms, and two boys aged 
respectively six and nine years, who had but 
recently arrived, made up an attractive group for 
the camera. 



127 

One Malay, from the Island of Ceylon, was 
distinctive by his coal-black glossy hair carefully 
brushed, straight features, waxed and pointed 
moustache, button-hole bouquet, and general 
spruce appearance, attesting the Moorish 
gallant. 

In looking- into the fierce, wild countenances of 
many of these girls and boys, we did not need to 
question if they were indeed real wild Indians. 
Civilized they may be, but it would seem that 
generations must elapse before all trace of the 
savage nature is obliterated. 

But the teachers and officers are more than 
satisfied with the results of education on these 
Indian students. The change in their nature, 
after three years at school, is complete and 
radical. Two-thirds of all who return to their 
homes, are steadfast in orood conduct and adhere 
to civilized ways. 

Among these various tribes we looked for 
some representative of the Modocs, — those fierce, 
warlike Indians, made so notorious a few years 
ago, by the killing of Gen. Ganby and soldiers, 
in the War of the Lava Beds of Oregon. One 
of our party, Mr. A. C. Squier, with Capt. 
Whittington, shortly after that fight, were 



128 

appointed by Rev. E. P. Smith, the Indian com- 
missioner, to move the tribe from their distant 
home, where they were living a wild and savage 
life, to the reservation in the Indian Territory, 
near Kansas, set apart for them by the Govern- 
ment. 

The sight of so many of these children-of-the- 
forest at Hampton College, brought vividly to 
mind the excitement and terror, at that time, of 
the inhabitants of many of the towns, cities, and 
villages passed through ; in some places troops 
having to be called out to allow of the passage of 
the Indians. On the way the Modocs were quiet 
and undemonstrative, no murmuring or discon- 
tent being manifested during the long journey. 
The chiefs assisted in keeping strict order. 

The tribe was located near the Quapaw, 
Seneca, Oneida, and Miama Indians, in a beauti- 
ful section, thickly wooded, well watered, with 
rich soil, and mild climate. Mr. Squier remained 
with them in the reservation until they had 
become fully settled. 

Some time after this, several of the tribe, Scar- 
faced Charlie, Steamboat Frank, Bogus Charley, 
Shek Kaska Jim, and two chiefs from Oregon, 
came on to New York with Col. Meacham and 



I 29 

Capt. Applegate. They visited Park Congrega- 
tional Church and Sunday School, in Brooklyn, 
and Scar-faced Charley addressed the school in 
Modoc, interpreted by Capt. Applegate. He 
spoke of the advantages the children of civiliza- 
tion had in the profusion of cards, papers, books, 
music, songs, etc., possessed by them, while the 
only instruction the Indian could obtain was 
drawn from the birds, trees, and running brooks. 

The greatest interest is felt by all the officials 
and teachers at Hampton, in the progress 
towards civilization made by the Indians in 
every part of our land. And here we learned 
that the Modocs are at present the most industri- 
ous and prosperous of all the many fragments of 
tribes in the Indian Territory. This most 
remarkable chancre is said to be due to o-ood 
management and surrounding influences. Lo- 
cated upon the Missouri border, near quiet 
Indians, having excellent schools, they have 
entirely abandoned their old life, and have 
become industrious and peaceable. Shek Kaska 
Jim has become a Quaker preacher, and is doing 
successful missionary work among the other 
tribes. 

The Indians are found to be naturally religi- 



I^O 



ous, and readily accept the Christian faith as 
soon as they understand its teachings. But for a 
long time the English Bible remains to them a 
sealed book. In almost every case the Indian, 
when he came East, knew nothing- of the English 
language, nor much of civilized life ; but he was 
earnest and persevering, and his progress has 
been rapid. One of the teachers affirms, that she 
has had these young men in her class "since they 
first came in blankets and long hair," and that 
their development is as wonderful as it is inter- 
esting. 

Among the Seminole Indians is a singular 
tradition regarding the origin of the races, and 
the white man's superiority. They say that when 
the Great Spirit made the earth, he also made 
three men, all of whom were fair complexioned. 
He then led them to the margin of a lake, and 
bade them leap in and wash. One obeyed and 
came out of the water purer and fairer than 
before. The second hesitated an instant, and 
during that time the water, agitated by the first, 
had become muddied, and when he bathed he 
came up copper-colored. The third did not leap 
in until the water had become black with mud, 
and he came out deeply dyed. The Great Spirit 



131 



laid before them three packages, and out of pity 
for his misfortune in color, gave the black man the 
first choice. He felt the weight of each, and chose 
the heaviest ; the copper-colored man then chose 
the next heaviest, leaving to the white man the 
lightest. When the packages were opened, the 
first was found to contain spades, hoes and all 
the implements of labor ; the second held all 
the equipments requisite for hunting, fishing and 
warfare ; while the third Q-ave to the white man 
pens, ink and paper, — weapons of the mind, 
indicative of the white man's superiority. 

Among the Indian students here, are nine 
married couples. And the lordly savage is fast 
learning to subdue his inherent laziness, and not 
cast all the household drudgery upon the devoted 
wife, as is the custom in his native forests. But 
it is reported that " the course of true love " 
does not always run smooth with these Hiawa- 
thas and Minnehahas. Caudle lectures are not 
unknown ; only, in the Indian family, Mr. 
Caudle is always the lecturer. But on the 
whole, Hampton's experiment with married peo- 
ple is full of encouragement and cheer. A 
new feature in this department, is the erection of 
small cottages of three rooms, for the accommo- 



132 

dation of married people, which can be built for 
the small sum of $ 250. These are put up by 
the Indians themselves, are simple in construc- 
tion and complete in all parts. It is believed 
that the red man, once having enjoyed and 
known the pleasures of a home of his own, will 
desire and be able to put one up easily and at 
little cost, when he again returns to life on the 
plains. 

Labor is required of all, for the sake of disci- 
pline and instruction. One of the fundamental 
principles of the school is, " that nothing shall be 
given which can be earned by the pupil," thus 
the dignity of labor is inculcated, and a spirit of 
independence fostered. Scholars are expected 
to work at least an hour a day, without compen- 
sation, at such duties as may be assigned them. 

In 1 88 1 two more buildings were constructed : 
one for Indian girls, called Winona (Elder-sis- 
ter) Lodge, and the other for Negro girls. 
The same year the new Academic Hall was 
built, to take the place of the one burned the 
year before. The edifice for Negro girls was 
donated by Mrs. Stone for an Industrial School, 
and is called the Stone Memorial Building. 

The College grounds are very beautiful. The 



134 

well-kept walks, hedges, flower-beds, and smooth 
lawns, are tended with care by the students, 
whose education stops not with the simple ac- 
quisition of the knowledge that is to be gained 
only between the leaves of a book. 

The Industrial Department has always been 
a marked feature of Hampton Institute. The 
boys were taught farm work and gardening 
from the start ; and the girls learned plain sewing, 
and the different branches of household work. 

That the trades have not been neglected in 
these years of advancement and progress, is 
proved by sight of the saw-mill, industrial- 
room, work-shop, harness-shop, carpenter-shop, 
tin-shop, shoe-shop, wheelwright and black- 
smith shops, and the Normal School Press 
Office with its printing and bookbinding de- 
partments, and boy and girl compositors, where 
is issued a monthly paper by the scholars. 

The students are formed into companies, 
subjected to military drill, and are promoted 
for meritorious conduct. It is an interesting 
and curious sigdit to see the students march and 
countermarch to the music of the College Band, 
keeping perfect step, and afterwards file into 
the laree dinino-hall to dinner. All a^es, sizes, 



136 

shades of color, and styles of physiognomy are 
seen, as quietly and orderly these dusky chil- 
dren are marshalled in, and stand, with bowed 
heads, behind their chairs, while " Grace " is 
sung by the whole school. At the sound of a 
bell all are seated, and the tables are served 
with systematic precision by waiters in snowy 
aprons. 

The College buildings are large, commodious, 
and imposing, and furnished with every appli- 
ance requisite for the intelligent carrying on 
of the work. The handsome brick Chapel, 
now in course of construction, is from the Mar- 
quand Estate, and was presented to the Insti- 
tution by the son-in-law of Frederick Marquand, 
Mr. Elbert B. Monroe, President of the Board 
of Trustees. It is designed to seat one thou- 
sand persons, and will cost $50,000. It is to 
have a tower one hundred and twenty-five feet 
high, with an illuminated clock, which can be 
seen for some thirty miles around. 

Indian and Negro Students are employed on 
the building, and are paid regular wages by 
the contractor. 

A branch of instruction, which is found to 
work well, is the Pastors' Class, held four days 



13% 

in the week. This Class, which now numbers 
twenty young men, is composed of those stu- 
dents who are seeking to prepare themselves 
for the ministry, together with several licensed 
colored preachers from the neighborhood, who 
meet with them. Clergymen of different de- 
nominations, from the churches and parishes 
in the vicinity, cordially respond to the invita- 
tion extended to them to visit this Class, and 
instruct these anxious seekers after truth. 

The result has been, that a higher and deeper 
spiritual fervor has been awakened in the hearts 
of the students, and less of that wild, ungov- 
ernable shouting and dancing, accompanied by 
physical contortions and paroxysms of extrava- 
gant excitement that have hitherto been the 
peculiar characteristics of Negro religious eath- 
erings, are now witnessed in the meetings where 
these preachers have an influence. 

In connection with the Institute, and in ad- 
dition to the home garden, is an extended farm 
of six hundred acres, under a high state of cul- 
tivation, about six miles away from the School 
grounds, worked wholly by the students. From 
here most of the stores for the table of the 
Institute are drawn. This is called " Hemen- 



J 39 

way Farm," in honor of the lady who donated 
it. 

The financial interests of the Institute are 
looked after by the Acting Treasurer, Mr. F. 
N. Gilman ; while the general business of the 
corporation is attended to, with the strictest 
fidelity to the smallest details, by Mr. F. C. 
Briggs, the Business Manager ; and the various 
industries of the school are presided over by 
competent and experienced workmen. 

But the head of this vast enterprise, and the 
prime mover in the work undertaken and car- 
ried on here, which has for its aim the eleva- 
tion of the two races, is the Principal, Gen. S. 
C. Armstrong, through whose untiring energy 
and wise counsels the School has grown to its 
present magnitude. 

Gen. Armstrong is especially fitted for his 
position, both by education and natural qualifica- 
tions. His father, the Rev. Richard Armstrong, 
D.D., graduated from Dickinson College in 1827; 
studied Theology at Princeton, and in 1832 
went to the Sandwich Islands as missionary. 
He there worked out that system of dealing 
with savage tribes, the success of which, in con- 
verting the Sandwich Islanders from cannibal- 



140 

ism to Christianity, is so well known. Gen. 
Armstrong was born under the Hawaiian gov- 
ernment, and thus he early learned the best 
methods of dealing with a colored race. In 
speaking with just pride of his revered father, 
he declared that to him alone, he owed what- 
ever of success he had achieved in his work. 
Gen. Armstrong is a man of deep sympathies, 
quick to see and prompt to act. Witnessing 
the misery and degradation of the Negro at the 
close of the War, he was early convinced of their 
need of teachers, of their own race, and in 1867 
wrote and published an able article on the ne- 
cessity of normal schools for the colored people. 

Our tourists felt a special interest in Hamp- 
ton Colleee, from the fact that two of our most 
esteemed and earnest workers, the late lamented 
Rev. Geo. D. Pike, and Rev. E. P. Smith, were 
for many years members of the Board of Trust- 
ees in the early days of Park Congregational 
Church, and were also Secretaries of the Ameri- 
can Missionary Association, and personally as- 
sisted in starting the Freedman's School, at 
Hampton. 

The departure of the Rev. E. P. Smith from 
our Church to reside in Washington, as Indian 



142 

Commissioner, under Gen. Grant, was univers- 
ally deplored. After his term of office had 
expired, Mr. Smith went to Africa to inspect 
Missions, and died of a fever contracted there. 

Rev. George D. Pike, whose recent death 
caused a feeling of sadness throughout the 
community, was a noble, Christian gentleman, 
enthusiastic in his work. Mr. Pike went with 
the Jubilee Singers on their European tour, as 
Manager, and brought back, for the benefit of 
Fisk University, over $50,000, besides many 
valuable presents of books, carpets and furniture. 

It was on a bright, beautiful morning that we 
were invited by Rev. H. B. Frissell, Chaplain 
and Acting Vice- Principal of Hampton Institute, 
to take a sail in his fine yacht. Entering the 
trim little sailing-vessel, the finest of several, 
tethered to the pier, we were soon gliding over 
the waters of the creek, toward the wider 
expanse of Hampton Roads. 

Wafted swiftly on by the bracing ocean breeze, 
we entered the broader expanse of water, and 
passed near the spot where the Cumberland sank, 
now marked by a red buoy, and approached 
within sight of the unfinished Fort Wool, or, as 
it is better known, the Fortress of the Rip Raps, 



H3 

which was designed, in conjunction with Fort 
Monroe, to guard the entrance to Hampton 
Roads. It was built upon an artificial island, 
made by -casting rocks into the water, which 
was here twenty feet deep. It derives its name 
from the unceasing ripple of the shoal water 
upon the rocks and bar. 



White-winged vessels specked the waters of 
the bay, and before us a flagship with pennant 
flying, rode proudly at anchor. Returning, our 
attention was attracted by a projecting strip of 
land, called Blue Beard's Point, once the home of 
an old hermit, who lived alone, and levied tribute 
on all shipping that passed that way ; onward 



144 

our course lay by Ivy Home, well named for the 
dense growth of that clinging vine covering its 
side. 

Mr. Frissell is a finished yachtsman, as well 
as a scholar and effective preacher, and on one 
occasion won a cup in a yacht race. With many 
anecdotes and incidents of interest connected 
with the work here, Mr. Frissell entertained us. 

One, illustrative of the devout spirit of the 
Negro, was of the long ago, when the poor, 
ignorant, terrified race fled for succor and pro- 
tection to the Federal lines. Here the trem- 
bling group were gathered on the shore', and 
witnessed with horror the encounter, between 
the Rebel ram and the Union ship, followed by 
the almost immediate sinking of the latter. 
With heavy hearts, and a great dread of what 
might be on the morrow, an impromptu prayer- 
meeting was held by them on the site where 
the Academic Hall now stands. Effectual, fer- 
vent prayers for the success of the Union arms, 
ascended all night to " Him who heareth and 
answereth prayer." And lo ! at dawn of day, 
while they yet prayed, came the answer. At 
least so those faithful hearts firmly believed. 

One anecdote, rather roug-h on the mission- 



145 

aries, was told by a lady visitor here, who is 
doinor a eood work anions the degraded colored 
people in the State. The majority of the 
negro pupils are from the poorest and most 
ignorant class. This good lady had succeeded 
in winning the consent (though reluctant) of a 
mother to allow her child to become an in- 
mate of Hampton Institute. Calling again to 
show her interest, and to see that no hindrance 
was thrown in the way at the last moment, she 
received the assurance that all was well, and 
that a strong lock had been put on the girl's 
trunk, that the missionaries might not steal her 
clothes ! 

On landing at the wharf, the carriage being: in 
waiting, we left this noble Institution with its 
corps of earnest workers in the cause of human- 
ity. A short drive over a level road, and across 
a bridge, brought us to the town of Hampton. 
This cannot be called an old town, for during the 
war, every dwelling but one was destroyed by 
fire, by order of the Confederates, while only the 
walls of Old St. John's Church were left to tell 
of Colonial days. Hampton was built on the 
site of a small Indian village called Kecoughtan. 
Its modern name was not bestowed upon it till 



146 

the year 1 705, when it was regularly incor- 
porated into a town. In Colonial times it was a 
place of some importance as a shipping port, 
and in 1775, the inhabitants of the town made a 
successful defence against the boats of the 
British fleet. The town suffered great disaster 
in the war of 18 12-14. It was attacked by 
a flotilla, commanded by Admiral Cockburn and 
Sir Sidney Beckwith, when, after a short and 
fierce battle, the garrison was captured and the 
place given up to pillage. During the war 
of the rebellion, this much suffering, ancient and 
picturesque little town was almost totally 
destroyed by fire. Without warning, the helpless 
inhabitants were roused from their beds at mid- 
night, to look upon their burning homes. 

Hampton is a town of about four thousand 
inhabitants, the majority of whom are colored. 
The chief object of interest now, to the visitor, is 
Old St. John's Church, which was built between 
the years 1658 and 1660. The bricks used in its 
construction were brought over from England 
by the colonists. During the last war with that 
country, when the British forces held possession 
of the town, this old church was used by the 
troops as barracks, and otherwise desecrated, so 



H7 

that nothing was left standing but the walls. 
The " Old Queen Anne Bell" was taken down, 
and placed in an angle of the wall made by the 
church and tower. From there it was removed 




Old St. John's Church, Hampton. 

to the guard-house of the encampment, by order 
of the commander, where, the tongue becoming 
loose, an axe was used to strike the hour, and 
the bell cracked. 



'148 

After the war the old pile was restored ; the 
bell re-cast, and the church consecrated once 
more to the service of God. But again, in the 
present century, the hand of man was raised 
against it, the torch was applied, and conflagra- 
tion raged on every side. Yet, these old walls 
stood firm. 

The flames had hardly subsided, when ex- 
cavations were made under the walls to find 
the corner-stone, and thereby secure any valu- 
ables that miodit have been buried there. 
Whether those vandals were successful in their 
search or not, is unknown. But these " Walls 
of Zion " have successfully withstood fire, sword 
and pillage, and to-day within them is heard 
the song of thanksgiving and praise, and the 
word of exhortation. 

Tradition says, " that anciently the King's 
coat-of-arms was placed upon the steeple, but 
that in 1776, shortly after the Declaration of 
Independence, the steeple was rent lengthwise 
by lightning, and the insignia of royalty hurled 
to the earth." 

Hampton was a "city of refuge" to the 
African race during the War. Hundreds of 
" contrabands " fled there for safety, and were 
protected and provided for by the Government. 




Ringing hue School Bell. 



15° 



So here the slave first tasted freedom ; for that 
memorable "order" issued from Fortress Monroe 
in 1861, making- the slave "contraband of war," 
gave him virtually his liberty. 




Leaving the town, 
a short drive brings 
us to the National 
Home for D. V. Sol- 
diers, a cluster of buildings of much archi- 
tectural merit, where some 1,650 sick and 



I5 1 

disabled veterans are cared for, and find shelter. 
Their crippled forms are seen moving through 
the spacious gardens, which are kept in order 
and beautified by their hands ; and with their 
cats, parrots and monkeys, these disabled soldiers 
seem to enjoy their delightful retreat by the 
sea. 

Major P. T. Woodfin, the Governor, is a kind 
and judicious ruler, and, as far as possible, 
everything has been done to make the place 
comfortable and attractive for the inmates. 
Many forms of diversion have been provided ; 
new barracks erected, and the library enlarged. 
Some of the soldiers are expert gardeners; 
others are skilled fishermen ; while a few find 
employment in mechanical pursuits. 

Private theatricals appear to be one of the 
chief amusements indulged in. A lar^e hall 
has been fitted up with all appointments re- 
quisite to a theatre, and well stocked with com- 
plete sets of scenery, some of which were painted 
by the inmates. Here dramatic performances, 
concerts, lectures and entertainments of various 
kinds are given for the amusement of the 
Veterans, and very creditable performances 
are often given by a theatrical and minstrel 
troop chosen from the "rank and file." 



■ . Is 



If 






. ^ <: 



1 ',-: 




Pi"- 

' ' 111! I \H - 

i* Hi 1 i» ^§w, 



I! 



Old Veterans. 



3v5 



The main building is a larore, r commodious 
edifice, beautifully situated, overlooking Hamp- 
ton Roads. It was, before the war, a young 
ladies' educational institute, called the Chesa- 
peake Female College. It was taken possession 




Ward Memorial Mall, Soldiers' Home. 

of by the military in 1S61, and used as a 
hospital. And in 1870, it was purchased by the 
Government, and became the Veterans' '' Home." 



i54 

The Ward Memorial Hall was built from funds 
bequeathed for that purpose, by Mr. Horatio 
Ward, of England. Here is the spacious dining- 
room, where sixteen tables, the length of the 
room, are set. One thousand men can be 
accommodated at one time. Over one thousand 
pounds of beef are consumed at one meal, and 
one thousand loaves of bread daily, other pro- 
visions being in proportion. Adjoining is the 
kitchen, with ovens, ranges, etc., on a mammoth 
scale. 

In this same building is a fine billiard room, 
and above, is the large and tastefully fitted up 
theatre. The offices of the Governor and Treas- 
urer are in a small brick building near. The 
Governor's residence is a handsome mansion, 
surrounded by a beautiful garden, with vases and 
banks of flowers and shrubs. Near is the con- 
servatory where are many rare and lovely plants. 

We next visited the National Cemetery, which 
is separated from the Soldiers' Home by a 
narrow inlet from the creek. As we drove up, a 
military funeral was gathered there, and the 
veterans were firing a volley over the grave of a 
dead comrade. It is stated that an average of 
about five interments a month take place from 
the home. 




• n 






y"? '■' ' ' "'- 



156 

The graves are laid out in double rows, feet 
to feet, with wide paths between the headstones. 
In the center^ of the Cemetery rises a tall, hand- 




Monument, National Cemetery. 



some monument of granite, erected, according 
to inscription, in " 1862, in memory of Union 
Soldiers, who died to maintain the laws." 



i57 

This monument is enclosed by a fence, the 
posts of which are 3-inch rifled cannon, and the 
pickets, muskets with bayonets fixed. At one 
end of this •burial-ground are the graves of 
Confederate soldiers, who died here while pris- 
oners of war. 

Leaving the Cemetery, we once again entered 
our carriage, and a ride of about two miles and 
a half over a smooth, hard, shell road and across 
a long bridge (where a Guard from the Fort- 
ress is stationed, to keep watch for deserters), 
brought us to Old Point Comfort, situated at the 
junction of Chesapeake Bay and Hampton 
Roads. 









CHAPTER XVI. 



OLD POINT COMFORT. 



THE HYGEIA HOTEL AND FORTRESS MONROE. 

" The war-drum throbbed no longer, 
And the battle-flags were furled." 




ISMISSING our carriage at the Hygeia 
Hotel, we found our friends quietly rest- 
ing after a day \o( sight-seeing, followed by a 
sumptuous dinner at this justly famed house. 



159 

It is a vast, imposing structure, and a favorite 
resort for travelers, with its spacious rooms, 
open fireplaces, and general air of comfort, 
together with its many windows and wide, 
extensive piazzas commanding, from all points, 
charming views of sea and land. 

And now that we also have rested and dined, 
we will take a look at this giant hotel, called the 
Hygeia. Old Point Comfort seems divided 
between Fortress Monroe and the Hygeia Hotel, 
the Government and Phcebus ; not, indeed, the 
luminous god of the ancients, but his human 
descendant— the proprietor of the one Hotel. 

Long before the war, Old Point Comfort was 
celebrated as a watering place, it being a great 
resort for the Southern gentry as early as the 
year 1817. Attracted by its beautiful situation, 
delightful climate, and singularly even tempera- 
ture, people from all sections of the country 
flocked here, to enjoy the cool, invigorating 
breezes of the ocean, and the luxuries of sea-bath- 
ing, sailing and fishing, which were here afforded. 

But the vicissitudes of war changed all this, 
and for many years after peace was declared, 
Old Point Comfort was known only as an 
important military post. In 1S67, a low two- 



i6o 

story building was erected on the site of the old 
Hygeia Hotel. It was afterwards enlarged and 
added to, and passed through a diversity of 
hands, having a variable existence till 1874, when 
Mr. Harrison Phoebus purchased the structure 
and became proprietor. Since that time, the 
history of the hotel has been one of brilliant 
success, till now it stands in the front rank, as 
one of the finest, most complete and superb 
hotels in the country. 

A brief account of the life of the genial pro- 
prietor, who is an acknowledged archetypal 
host, — and by whose unflagging energy and 
enterprise this fashionable resort has grown, till 
to-day its fame extends throughout the length 
and breadth of the land, — cannot but be of 
interest. 

The son of a Methodist local preacher and 
farmer, the youngest of sixteen children, 
Harrison Phoebus' early years were passed in 
comparative poverty. His father died while he 
was but a boy, and the only schooling he 
obtained was in an irregular attendance, a few 
winters, at the village school. He worked on 
his mother's worn-out farm, did chores, earned an 
occasional quarter by assisting a neighboring 



i6i 

farmer, and spent the winter months culling 
oysters at fifty cents a day. 

But while he toiled cheerfully with his hands, 
his active mind was silently working out the 
great problem of his life. His father had left a 
small library containing, besides a number of 
religious works, a few volumes of biography, 
history and travels. These young Phoebus 
eagerly devoured during his leisure hours, like 
Webster, feeding his mind, after a day of toil, by 
the light of a tallow candle and a pine knot. 

Keen, observant, willing, not afraid to work, 
he was ready to seize any honorable opportunity 
that presented itself for advancing his interests. 
From his reading he had learned the possibilities 
for advancement the great outside world pre- 
sented, and he was determined, if perseverance 
and hard work could accomplish it, he would 
win success. With a natural taste for mechanics, 
he practiced as a carpenter for a while, till, at the 
age of nineteen, he was, in a small way, a master 
builder. 

On the breaking out of the war, young 
Phoebus enlisted in a Maryland regiment, and in 
the latter part of '63 received an honorable dis- 
charge from the army. Chancino- to visit the office 



l62 

of the Adams Express Company, in Baltimore, 
the rush and activity of the business attracted 
him. He applied for a position, producing his 
discharge papers as evidence of character. 

He was engaged as a wagon driver, but within 
ten days received a position in the office of the 
company. Before six weeks were over, he was 
detailed as special messenger on the way-train to 
Martinsburg, W. Va. On this line he was twice, 
in four months, captured by Mosby's guerillas. 
Mr. Phoebus continued to be trusted with special 
and important missions and business by the 
company, all of which he discharged with prompt 
fidelity, till, in 1866, he received the appointment 
of agent to Fortress, a post which he has ever 
since filled. 

Appointed now to a pleasant and permanent 
agency, with a lucrative salary, adequate to his 
support, many in his position would have been 
content with the measure of success achieved. 
Not so with Harrison Phoebus. His active, 
enterprising spirit could not be held back. 
He became postmaster of the Point, and en- 
gaged successfully in many enterprises. He 
was cautious, clear-sighted, prompt in his deal- 
ings. He invested profitably in real estate. 



163 

Whatever he found to do he did it with his 
might, going into every enterprise with an abso- 
lute determination to achieve success ; and he 
soon became known as a rising man. 

Mr. Phoebus had long taken note of affairs at 
the Hygeia. He had seen the errors in the 
management, and knew that the end must soon 
come. With keen foresight he estimated the 
possibilities of the business. Though he had 
had no personal experience in hotel keeping, he 
had a firm confidence in his own abilities, and 
laid his plans accordingly. 

When, in 1874, the firm became bankrupt, and 
the hotel was advertised for sale at public 
auction, Mr. Phoebus became proprietor. Into 
this new enterprise he brought the same un- 
conquerable energy and sound judgment that had 
marked his previous career. To have the finest 
hotel of its kind, and let the general public know 
it, was now the object to which he devoted him- 
self, heart and soul. 

He visited various establishments in different 
parts of the country, and observed the manage- 
ment, adopting the attractive features, while 
avoiding the errors. He remodeled and ex- 
tended the hotel, looked personally after the 



164 

comfort of his guests, and instituted a strict 
system of discipline amongst his employees. 
Gradually the reputation of the house spread, 
and the throng of guests increased year by year. 
Few visitors left the Hygeia without a determin- 
ation to come again. As money poured in, it 
was expended in enlarging and beautifying the 
house, and adding to its attractions, till, to-day, 
it stands in completeness and management 
without a peer. 

Simple and unostentatious by nature, with a 
face unmarked by care, a stranger would have 
little idea of the reserved power possessed by 
him. But with all the vast and varied enter- 
prises in which he has been engaged, Mr. 
Phoebus has found time to take a personal 
interest in benevolent and charitable affairs, and 
to assist others, among whom he has been thrown 
in contact, by valuable suggestions and judicious 
counsel, as well as by the open-handed liberality 
by which he is known far and near. 

His charities are great and numerous, though 
but little known, for few carry out, to the letter, 
more closely the injunction, " Let not thy left 
hand know what thy right hand doeth." Mr. 
Phoebus possesses the power of making earnest, 



1 66 

true, and lasting friendships, winning the respect 
and confidence of all. He has been twice 
urged to accept a nomination for Congress, 
but will not enter the political arena. 

Mr. Phoebus personally conducted us over 
this mammoth buildino- and showed us its 
inner workings. Every convenience and luxury 
is to be found beneath its roof. The parlors 
are large and rich, tasteful and elegant in 
furnishing and decoration. The dining-room is 
one of the handsomest in the world and capable 
of seating one thousand guests. 

The lofty and beautiful ball-room, shaped like 
a sea-shell, with an immense oriel window, open 
to the sea, enclosing nearly half the room, where 
flowers blossom all the year, echoes every night 
to the inspiriting strains of music, and the trip of 
lightsome feet and happy hearts. The spacious 
reading-room, breakfast and sitting rooms, the 
office and reception - room resplendent with 
beveled mirrors, unique and esthetic mantels, 
open fireplaces, illuminating fixtures and Queen 
Anne windows, pander to the taste of all and 
invite to luxurious ease. 

The cuisine is perfect, the waiters polite 
and attentive. The varied resources of Chesa- 



1 68 

p'eake Bay are proverbial ; while its oysters have 
been famed since the days of Captain John 
Smith. Canvas-back ducks, terrapins, turtles, 
soft-shell crabs, Virginia hams, and Maryland 
geese and turkeys are, each in its season, to] [be 




Winter Corridors. 

found on the table of the Hygeia ; while from 
the markets of Baltimore and New York the 
more substantial requisites of beef, mutton, etc., 
are daily obtained, and serve to tempt the 
appetite of invalid and epicure. 



169 

This great hotel covers an area of two acres, 
is four stories high, has eleven miles of sunny, 
glass-inclosed verandas, with more than ninety 
miles of steam, water, drain, ventilation and gas 
pipes ; while four and three-quarter acres of 
carpet are required to cover the floors. The 
guests' room, most distant, is 1,380 feet from the 
registry office. 

Every improvement that modern ingenuity has 
devised has been introduced. Turkish, Roman, 
Russian and electric baths are at the service of 
the guests. These are fitted up with cathedral 
glass windows, tesselated marble floors, and 
general Oriental magnificence. 

All the rooms and suites are large and ex- 
quisitely furnished, having hot and cold water, 
gas, electric bells and telephonic attachments in 
each ; while steam radiators, which can be imme- 
diately brought into use, or turned off at pleasure, 
are in every apartment, or if preferred, an open 
orate or stove is at hand. 

The concert hall, on the second floor, is a 
beautiful and artistically finished room, and is 
used for private theatricals, concerts, lectures, re- 
ceptions, dinner parties, etc. Thirteen thousand 
dollars were spent on its decoration and fur- 



170 

nishing. Billiard-rooms, bowling-alleys, tennis- 
courts, offer their attractions in connection with 
the allurements of yachting, fishing, bathing, 
aquatic shooting, the military drill, artillery 
practice, and to those romantically inclined, a 
moonlight stroll along the turfed battlements of 
the Fortress, to the martial music of the garrison 
band. 

The laundry and kitchen must not be passed 
unnoticed. Each is complete in its depart- 
ment, and on a vast scale, befitting the house. 
Everything is sweet and clean and orderly. The 
work of washing, drying and ironing is all done 
by steam, and the machines seem almost 
endowed with life. In the kitchen, dusky figures 
move briskly about. Here are the immense 
boilers, ranges, kettles and all the paraphernalia 
requisite for catering to the taste of so many 
guests. But one important, and generally 
indispensable, adjunct to a well-ordered kitchen, 
seems wanting. The fires are burning, the 
savory dishes cooking, the atmosphere of the 
room is clear, the draft excellent — but where 
is the chimney? Surely there is none. What, 
then, becomes of the smoke ? 'Tis a mystery 
our host, evidently amused at our perplexity, 



171 



must solve. This was the architectural loca- 
tion, in point of convenience, for the kitchen, 
but nowhere in the great room could a chimney 
be built without seriously interfering with many 
of the most eligible apartments. Mr. Phoebus 
studied the subject, experimented, and ended 
by carrying the smoke from the ranges seventy 
feet under ground, through a tunnel, to a high 
brick chimney standing by itself in the yard. 
Whether the proprietor has protected his dis- 
covery by a "patent applied for," is not known. 
In any event, the idea will doubtless be seized 
upon by builders. 

The ventilation of the hotel is thoroueh, and 
its system of drainage complete in its workings. 
Mr. Phoebus has given this subject special and 
personal attention. He studied the best author- 
ities, and traveled thousands of miles to inspect 
various systems, and the result has been the 
giving to the Hygeia Hotel a drainage system 
which has been pronounced by experts to be 
"absolutely perfect." 

In all these improvements and additions, Mr. 
Phoebus has been his own architect and con- 
tractor. He draws his own plans, buys all the 
lumber and materials, hires his men, and super- 



172 

intends the work himself. When any alteration 
suggests itself to his mind, he first makes himself 
master of the subject in hand, sparing no time, 
trouble, nor expense to attain his end. Thus he 
is enabled to go to work intelligently, with a 
thorough understanding of the matter in hand. 

The servants have a glad, contented look- 
And well may they consider their employer a 
personal friend, for the servants' quarters are 
fitted up with an eye to their comfort and happi- 
ness, with ample accommodation for two hundred 
men. Piazzas run across the front of the build- 
ing, and every comfort is provided for them. 
Here is a large library, a reading room, and a 
billiard room, for recreation during leisure hours. 
The women's building is arranged with the same 
care and thoughtfulness. The housekeeper has 
one hundred and twenty girls under her super- 
vision. 

What particularly strikes the stranger upon 
first arriving at this famed resort, is the home- 
like aspect of all about him, the absence of the 
usual stiff formality, which seems inseparable 
from the elaborate furnishing of most fashionable 
hotels. Though, in what this secret charm con- 
sists is hard to discover, for here one is 
surrounded by every luxury and elegance. 



/J 



For children, life at the Hygeia is simple, 
healthful and happy. Here they can run and 
play on the broad verandas, romp on the hard, 
smooth beach, or dig in the sand, making minia- 
ture forts and castles, gathering pebbles, while 
they bask in the sunshine and breathe in the 
clear air of the ocean. 




On the Beach. 

On the bluff at the water's edge is a pavilion 
where one can sit and look out over the broad, 
blue waters, upon the ever-shifting panorama, 
and listen to the music of the waves breaking 
upon the sandy shore. The hotel is open all the 
year round, and is nearly as much frequented in 
winter as in summer. The miles of sunny, glass- 
enclosed piazzas fronting on Hampton Roads, 



174 

with the perfect system of heating this vast 
building, together with its other attractions, com- 
bine to make this hotel a delightful winter 
sanitarium, as well as a charming summer resort. 
The hotel is located only one hundred yards 




Fortress Monroe. 

from Fortress Monroe, 
^ and toward this point we 
turned our steps. Cross- 
ing the draw-bridge, the 
presence of the guard 
posted at the massive portal, gave unmistaka- 
ble evidence that we were approaching a military 
stronghold. It is hexagonal in shape, and covers 
eighty acres of ground, surrounded by a moat 
eight feet deep, and from seventy-five to one 
hundred and fifty feet wide. 




T\ the Fortress. 



176 

Inside, the Fortress is almost like some thriving 
village, with its broad walks and drives, cottages, 
church, barracks, storehouse and arsenal ; its 
grassy lawns, live-oaks and other shade trees old 
and gnarled, shrubbery and flowers. But the 
groups of men in uniform, the sentinels pacing 
back and forth with measured step, the spacious 
parade ground, the quiet and order, the munitions 
of war on every side, attest the strict military 
discipline. 

Here is located the United States Artillery 
School, where all artillery graduates from West 
Point are ordered to attend for the space of two 
years. Target practice, from outside the fort or 
from the battlements, which takes place nearly 
every afternoon, is a great attraction to strangers. 
A mile and a half away, across the water, can be 
seen floating the small, white target. 

The turf-covered ramparts are not among the 
least of the delights of a visit to the Fortress, 
and it is said that a promenade here, with a well- 
drilled officer, is at once most agreeable and 
dangerous to the unsophisticated. We did not 
miss the morning Guard Mounting or the sunset 
Dress Parade, when the reveille sounded and the 
enlivening- strains of the band were heard. Wit- 



i?8 

nessing the performance of the varied military 
manceuvers by the soldiers in their spotless^uni- 
forms, followed by the final grouping in linejand 
dismissal, was a fine and effective sight. 

Under the battlements are lines of what are 




Jeff. Davis's Prison, Fortress Monroe. 



called casemates, which are used as dwellings for 
the officers. One was pointed out as being the 
place of confinement of Jefferson Davis, after 
his capture. 



i8o 

Gen. J. C. Tidball is Commandant of the Post, 
and his pleasant residence gives a good idea of 
the rural beauty of many of the cottages within 
the fortress, occupied by the officers. This 
garrisoned post forms an enduring nucleus of 
refined and educated society at Old Point Com- 
fort, and distinguished members of official and 
fashionable circles from every section of our own, 
and many foreign countries, find representatives 
at the Point during the year. 

Recrossino- the draw-bridge on our return, we 
looked in at the N.avy Yard, passed along the 
well-kept, seemingly deserted streets, and arrive 
at the Government wharf in time to take the 
local steamer to Norfolk, a sail of about fifteen 
miles. 




Glimpses of < '■ \rkis in I ,ife. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



NORFOLK. 

* ' Amid the bright green pastures, the dark brown city stands, — 
Where are all its muttering voices, aching heads, and busy hands?" 

P'HIS ancient town was laid out more than a 
century and a half ago. It was burned 
during the Revolutionary War, by order of the 
British colonial governor, Lord Dunmore, and 
fully nine-tenths of it destroyed. With its irreg- 
ular dingy streets and sleepy aspect, it looks more 
like some old English town, than an American sea- 
port. The negro population is large, though many 
Northern people, and some English families, have 
settled in the vicinity. The society of Norfolk is 
refined and the people hospitable. On the 
streets, near the water-side, are many fine shops, 
and much activity is apparent. A goodly traffic 
in fish and oysters is carried on in the town ; and 
of late years it is taking an important rank as a 
shipping port for cotton, and is now the peanut 
market for the world. 




s X - - 

Market Scene, Norfolk. 



1 84 

But, formerly, Norfolk was accounted "an 
elysium for lazy folks." From a Southern journal 
we quote : " We are lazy in Norfolk, that's a 
fact. But there is no need of working here. If 
a man has energy enough to dig a worm, he can 
take a pin-hook, and sit down on the wharf, and 
catch fish enough in one day to last him two. If 
he is too lazy to dig a worm, he can tie a piece of 



QiJUj^:^»A Qi 



M 



*": sfi 




flannel rag" on a string, and catch enough crabs to 
last a day or two ; and if too lazy for that, he 
can lie down on his back on the sand at ebb- 
tide, open his mouth, and when the tide comes in, 
the crabs will run into it. What need is there of 
work in a country for which Nature has done so 
much ? " But that day of listlessness and stagna- 




Going to Mill. 



1 86 

tion is past, and the city is waking up from its 
long sleep. 

Hampton Roads, one of the finest expanses of 
land-locked water in the world, is only fifteen 
miles from Norfolk. The fort is still used, as it 
was before the War, as a magazine or receptacle 
for military stores. From the parapet, a mag- 
nificent view of river, harbor, villages, forts, 
hospital and city, can be obtained. 

The private residences are mostly plain and 
unpretentious, but with a homelike aspect, many 
of them being surrounded by fine gardens and 
shrubbery. A stroll through some of the quiet 
streets of the city, brought us to the old ivy-clad 
Church of St. Paul's. It was built in 1739, 
and shows, imbedded in its side, a cannon 
ball received durino- the bombardment of the 
town by the British, in 1776. Thus, though war, 
conflagration and pestilence, have in turn surged 
around it on every side, this venerable structure 
has been left standing, to tell the story to 
future generations. 

The interior is cruciform, and, with its fine 
memorial window, seems like a miniature cathe- 
dral. A modern wing- was added to this ancient 
church in 1877. The whole edifice, together 
with the mouldering tombstones, vaults, monu- 



ments, gnarled trees, hollow trunks, and brick 
wall, is completely covered with the clinging 
ivy. Truly 

"A rare old plant is the Ivy green. 
* * * 

How closely he twineth, how tight he clings 

To his friend, the old Oak-tree ! 
And slyly he traileth along the ground, 

And his leaves he gently waves, 
And he joyously twines and hugs around 
The rich mould of dead men's graves." 

Hours might be spent in the old churchyard, 
where many quaint inscriptions can be de- 
ciphered from these worn, broken and defaced 
tombstones. For the following- we are indebted 
to the kindness of Mrs. C. C. Knowlton, who 
transcribed them during a previous visit : 



1795- 

Mrs. Abigail, Consort of Benj. Pollard, 
Merchant of this Borough. 

Pattern of goodness and unblemished life, 
Here lies the tenderest mother, fondest wife, 
Who's easy manners, free from guile or art, 
Who's sweet simplicity engage each \^ ) 
Who's lovely person and who's sprightly mind 
Each female grace with every virtue joined. 



1 89 

Another inscription reads 





Here lyeth y body of 




Wm. Harris 




who dep'ted this life y 




8th day of mar 1687 




aged 35 years. 


• 


<&% 



This latter slab is inserted in the corner of the 
wall of the church edifice, having been brought 
from some other burial ground and placed there. 
The oldest date here legible is 1673 ; the most 
recent is 1882, being that of the late Rector 
Okeson, who held the rectorate of St. Paul's 
parish for twenty-six years. 

But we cannot ling-er longer in this old city. 
The time has arrived when we must retrace our 
steps and set our faces Northward. Promptly on 
the minute, the Old Dominion left her anchorage 
at the wharf ; and now but the memory remains 
of these days of wandering under Southern skies. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



ON SHIPBOARD. 

" Smooth went our boat along the summer seas, 
Leaving — for so it seemed — a world behind 
Its cares, its sounds, its shadows ; we reclined 
Upon the sunny deck, heard but the breeze 
That whispered through the palms, or idly played 
With the lithe flag aloft — a forest scene 
On either side drew its slope line of green, 
And hung the water's edge with shade." 

A FTER these many days of eager unrest, 

bewildering enjoyment, varied and often 

perplexing experiences amid strange scenes and 

people, it was pleasant to gather, a re-united 

company, on board the good steamship which 
was to bear us homeward. 

Grouped on the upper deck of the Old Domin- 
ion, the scene that met our view was one of 
surpassing beauty. Lovely villas with wide, 
hospitable-looking verandas, overrun with creep- 
ing vines and bowered in luxurious verdure ; 
groves of pine and other trees, with green lawns 
sloping down to the water's edge, fixed the atten- 



I 9 I 

tion as we glided quietly down the beautiful 
Elizabeth River to Hampton Roads, a distance 
of fifteen miles. 

As we breathed in the balmy air and fragrant 
breeze, wafted to us from the shore, all thought 
of care was banished from the mind, and the last 
lingering- feeling; of restlessness was stilled and 
blended with the unbroken calm around. We 
looked back at the land we were leaving with re- 
gret and pride. Regret, that our stay could not 
be longer ; and pride, that the same flag waves 
over this Southern land that floats over our 
Northern homes — that we are again a united 
people. 

Naturally our thoughts reverted to the scenes 
we had left, and as the shadows deepened, ques- 
tions were asked, facts and incidents related 
of sights witnessed, and accounts given of 
experiences and impressions received by different 
individuals during the trip. Mr. Robertson, who 
had spent many years in India, near the banks of 
the Ganges, related many stirring incidents of 
life there, the present tour having brought those 
early associations vividly back to memory. Mr. 
Wheeler gave us a little history of his early 
career as a seamen, when a serious accident 
terminated his "life on the ocean wave." 



192 

Mr. Lucas Baker exhibited a sketch of " Epps' 
Homestead" on the James river, near City Point, 
taken by him on the spot, and gave the follow- 
ing history of the old Appomattox estate: 
" Dr. Richard Epps inherited the place from his 
ancestors, in a continuous line back to the year 
1636. The original patent is now preserved in 
the State House at Richmond. The name of 
the first proprietor was Col. Francis Epps. 
Before the War of the Rebellion, there was a 
large estate and many slaves. During the cam- 
paign of General Grant in 1864 and 1865, the 
place was occupied as the headquarters of the 
army operating against Petersburg and Rich- 
mond. At the end of the war there were about 
fifty cottages on the estate, which had been 
erected for the use of the various officers of Gen. 
Grant's staff. The cottage used by the adjutant- 
general now remains. But the one occupied by 
Gen. Grant was removed to Fairmount Park, in 
Philadelphia. The place is one of the most 
beautiful on the river. Occupying the point of 
land between the Appomattox and James rivers 
a grand view is afforded of the James to 
Bermuda Hundred. The grounds are covered 
with fine old trees ; the roses were in bloom, and 



193 

the grass in the parks ready to cut. The house 
is a good example of an old Virginia residence. 
Four of the rooms are one hundred and fifty 
years old." 

Mrs. H. P. Smith described in glowing terms 
the sail down the beautiful and historic James, 
and afterwards handed to the Historian, the 
following account : 

" Down the James River. 

"We left Richmond at 3 P.M., May 19th, on 
the steamer Old Dominion. Casting regretful 
glances back at the city, we bade it farewell. It 
was a lovely day, balmy and not too bright. The 
rays of the afternoon sun were slightly veiled by 
fleecy clouds, which, without obscuring the light, 
tempered the heat to a comfortable degree. 
Richmond, enthroned upon her high hills and 
embosomed in rich foliage, appeared indeed 
'beautiful for situation.' Our attention was 
soon drawn from the city, which we were fast 
leaving behind us, by the beautiful scenery on 
either hand, and the wonderfully devious course 
of the James. 

" Our party stationed themselves on the hurri- 
cane deck, a few even venturing to take chairs out 
on one of the paddle-boxes, where they had an 



i 9 4 

excellent view on both sides of the river. Our 
polite Captain Smith came aft and pointed out 
the places of interest. As we passed along, we 
could often look across a bend in the river, and 
see our track running in almost an opposite direc-' 
tion to where we then were, so crooked is the 
course of the river. One of our fellow-tourists, 
who has traveled in Oriental lands, said that the 
James reminded him much of the Hoogly River. 
We noticed that the colored people, who live here 
and there along the banks, would often row out 
in their skiffs towards the steamer, apparently 
just to enjoy the gentle rocking which the 
steamer's huge paddles furnished them. 

"We saw many large, dark birds flying lazily 
along and often alighting on the muddy flats, 
which are occasionally visible. After debating 
among ourselves what species of bird they be- 
longed to, we betrayed our ignorance of ornithol- 
ogy by pronouncing them eagles ; however, on 
consulting one of the officers, he said : ' Oh ! 
they are turkey-buzzards.' Our courteous cap- 
tain directed our attention to a large house sur- 
mounted bv a flae-staff and a flagf, situated on a 
high bluff on the eastern side of the river. He 
said that the gentleman who lived there always 



195 

saluted the Old Dominion when she passed, by 
a light at night and dipping his Hag by day ; and 
even while we gazed, the flag was dipped three 
times, to which courtesy the steamer responded 
by three shrill whistles. 

"We were all, of course, greatly interested in 
recollections of the war and of the battles that 
had been fought on or near this now peaceful 
river. But as we looked to right and left and 
saw the remains of earthworks, fortifications, and 
especially when we passed through the celebrated 
Dutch Gap, and remembered what labor and 
skill had been expended there, we felt how 
little we could realize of the terrible struggle 
and deeds of daring which were done here a 
score of years ago. It was all so peaceful and 
serene now, that one could hardly believe that the 
summer air had re-echoed to the thunder of can- 
non, and that these fair fields and hills had 
trembled under the tread of armies. We gazed 
upon Chapin's Bluff and Drury's Bluff and off 
toward Malvern Hill, with great interest. How 
strange it seemed, to be recalling those names, 
once too familiar to us in the war news ot long 
ago! 

"About 6 P.M.. we reached City Point, another 



196 

historic place, and gladly availed ourselves of the 
Captain's invitation to visit Gen. Grant's head- 
quarters. These were at Epps' Homestead, the 
family mansion having been used as Quarter- 
master's department, while the General and Staff 
lived in log houses built for the purpose. Of 
these only the chimneys are now standing, and 
are overgrown by beautiful English ivy, forming 
columns of rich verdure. We were very cordially 
received by Dr. Epps and family, who gave us 
some interesting facts in the history of his home. 
The main part of the house, consisting of four 
rooms, was built in 1651, and is still in a good 
state of preservation. The iron work of the 
veranda showed the marks of war, a portion of it 
having been broken away by the explosion of a 
shell. There are several gunboats or monitors 
anchored near City Point, the officers of which 
form an agreeable addition to the society of the 
neighborhood. The steamer's whistle brought 
our agreeable call to an end, and summoned us 
on board without delay, and we were soon steam- 
ing down the river in the soft twilight, with the 
prospect of a pleasant night before us. 

" Hearing sounds of mirth and jollity down 
below, we inquired as to its meaning, so Captain 



i 9 7 

Smith told us to follow him to the lower deck, 
and see and hear for ourselves. We found that 
a large party of colored people, men, women and 
children, had come on board to go to Norfolk 
and vicinity, to work in the fields, and were now 
enjoying their journey after their own fashion, 
singing, dancing and keeping time by clapping 
their hands. They had no banjo with them, but 
one small boy had a mouth-organ, which pro- 
duced all the accompaniment they needed. By 
request, they sang some of their peculiar mel- 
odies for us, and also danced a little, though the 
ladies of color were shy, and only one would join 
in the festivities. We were highly entertained, 
and as they did not forget to pass around the 
hat, they were probably well satisfied. 

" We reached Norfolk in the night, and the next 
morning were aroused early to take a hasty 
breakfast, and get ready for a trip to Old Point 
Comfort by the steamer Northampton. W e 
found the sail very pleasant, and on arriving, 
engaged a stage to take all who wished over to 
Hampton, to the Soldiers' Home, and to Gen. 
Armstrong's School. Before starting, we visited 
Fortress Monroe.-, and saw the regular guard 
mounting for the day ; and afterwards inspected 
the fort, admiring its strength and solidity." 



CHAPTER XIX. 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 

' In darkness the sky and the ocean were blending 
As we steered for our own native isle in the west, 
A twinkling light o'er the waters extending 

Its lenthening ray, gave us hope of our rest. 
Oh ! 'twas sweet, that soft light, from the harbor in sight — 
As we dash'd through its track, it said ' Welcome, * * back.' " 

TI^ROM these pleasant recollections our atten- 
tion was drawn to the brilliant lights of 
the Hygeia Hotel, and the gray battlements of 
Fortress Monroe, while we looked farewell upon 
the clear waters of Hampton Roads, and the 
Rip Raps, casting a parting glance toward the 
grain-elevator of Newport News, whose lofty 
tower affords a prominent landmark, seeming to 
thrust itself upon the vision at all points, and 
from the most unexpected quarter. 

The chilly atmosphere on deck, at length, 
compelled us to seek the milder temperature of 
the saloon below, where luxurious chairs, lounges 
and tables, invited to the social games and con- 
versation of the drawing- room. Soon whist and 



i 9 9 

euchre parties were formed, Capt. Smith joining 
in the games, and adding to the interest and 
merriment by ready wit and repartee. 

Determined to make the most of our last night 




on shipboard, several of us, at 

a late hour, when interest in 

iS pllj^ ~"^ the games began to flag, gladly 

J^5/J|'li ■ accepted the cordial invitation 

* °: % T: of the Captain to adjourn to 

-" t his private room on the upper 

deck, where he had many objects of beauty and 

interest. Among these, a piece of brick out of 

the Church where Pocahontas was married, was 

shown, and also some marine curiosities, such as 

a pair of whale's teeth, and a baby's fist carved by 



200 

a sailor on a long voyage, out of the fine ivory 
from the tooth of a whale. Capt. Smith is an 
old whaler, and at home on the subject of these 
"royal fish." From his chalk-illustrated descrip- 
tion of the various species (he being a natural 
artist), we could almost believe we had ourselves 
been on a whaling voyage. 

Capt. Smith is well known to the traveling 
public, and very popular. He is an experienced 
sailor, the most of his life having been passed on 
the water. He himself told us that he had been 
at sea twenty-four years, sailed in every ocean 
but one, and though, from a boy, had been 
exposed to every temptation, yet he had never 
drank a drop of liquor in his life, nor used 
tobacco in any shape or form. 

It has been said : 

" Men are not good but for necessity ; 
Nor orderly are ever born, but bred." 

To this libel, Capt. Smith is a living rebuke, 
for no early discipline, however severe, could 
have developed such a love of order as is seen in 
all his surroundings, and shown in the exactness 
with which all things are done by him, even to 
the carrying out of the minutest details. His 
books, pictures, writing materials, and ornaments, 



201 



all have a place, and are kept with systematic 
precision ; and the disarrangement of the most 
trivial article, is a source of pain to him. No 
memento of the past is thrown away, but the 
seemingly most insignificant is fondly treasured, 
and finds a place among those of greater 
pretention. Old love-letters, scraps of poetry, 
marriage certificates, newspaper clippings, musty 
tomes, a faded rose kept for twenty years, 
photographs, miniatures, etc., formed a miscel- 
laneous collection of souvenirs which, when 
exhibited with the little scrap of accompanying 
history, told with a touch of humor or feeling, 
carried with it a charm that will long linger in 
the memory. 

The fog hung like a pall o'er sea and land, 
during all the following day ; and though the 
ocean was calm, the Captain could not leave his 
post of outlook on the hurricane deck, so our tour- 
ists were forced to search out amusement for them- 
selves. In the free, careless, idle life of the sea, 
every trille becomes a matter of moment ; the 
simplest joke is hugely relished, and the most 
astounding anecdote readily believed. 

The hours passed quickly and pleasantly, and, 
despite the fog, the stately ship kept on with 



202 

undiminished speed. The Old Dominion is a 
side-wheeler, with great breadth of beam, and 
consequently rolled far less than the screw steam- 
ships, scarcely any motion being perceptible 
during the entire voyage back. 

The shades of evening" were gathering about 

o o o 

us ; the clouds parted and gradually dispersed, 




" Old Dominion." 

and one by one the stars came out in their 
beauty, when, crowded on the deck, we watched 
the soft and varied lights, as we neared the 
beautiful harbor of New York". 

The scene, even divested of all association, is 
one of beauty. Before us, sweeping away to the 
north, lies the City of New York, while on our 



203 

right nestles Brooklyn, our home, seemingly 
united to the great metropolis by the graceful 
span of her noble bridge. Never to us had the 
suspension bridge looked so lovely, as in that 
twinkling, flickering, hazy light ; it seemed almost 
the work of phantom hands. The deep green of 
the many islands that dot the waters of the bay, 
stretched along to the left, while, beyond, rose 
the dark slope of the New Jersey coast. 

Soon we reached our moorings at the wharf ; 
and now, our wanderings o'er, farewell to officers 
and crew, and to the gallant ship which has 
borne us " in triumph on the liquid way." 

" And you, my friends ! farewell, a short farewell ! 
We have been loitering long and pleasantly, 
And now for our dear homes." 






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